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If the words do not line up with an actor’s mouth, your TV has an audio/video synchronization error, commonly called a lip-sync problem. The cause may be the TV, soundbar, AV receiver, Bluetooth device, streaming box, app, broadcast, audio format, or the program itself—not necessarily a defective television.
First identify the direction of the error: if you hear speech before the lips move, audio is ahead; if the lips move before you hear speech, audio is behind. Then find out whether the problem affects one title, one app or channel, one input device, or every source. That diagnosis tells you which setting to change and helps you avoid making surround sound, HDR, or gaming latency worse.
Why Doesn’t the Sound Match the Lips on My TV?
What a TV lip-sync problem means
Televisions do not process the picture and sound as one indivisible signal. The TV may scale the image, apply HDR processing, smooth motion, and reduce noise while a soundbar or receiver decodes Dolby audio, creates virtual surround sound, or enhances dialogue. A streaming stick, app, Bluetooth connection, HDMI ARC/eARC link, or broadcast feed can add another delay.
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When those processing paths take different amounts of time, you see a person speak at one moment but hear the corresponding words at another. This is an audio/video sync error. The technical terms are audio latency for delay in the sound path and video latency for delay in the picture path. RTINGS’ explanation of audio latency and A/V-sync errors describes why different devices and processing modes can create the mismatch.
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Determine which way the error goes
| What you notice | What it means | Start with these checks |
|---|---|---|
| You hear the words before the lips move | Audio is ahead of the video. | Reduce picture processing, then add a small amount of audio delay if your equipment provides it. Test the soundbar and avoid Bluetooth while diagnosing. |
| You see the lips move before hearing the words | Audio is behind the video. | Reduce audio processing, try Pass-through or PCM as a test, use Bypass where available, and compare a wired connection. |
| The offset changes, jumps, or grows during playback | This is probably not a simple fixed offset. | Restart the source and app, test another title, simplify the audio format, update the devices, and investigate the network or stream. |
| You hear an echo while the TV and soundbar are both on | Two versions of the same audio are arriving at different times. | Use only one speaker output, unless your TV specifically supports synchronized multiple-speaker output. |
A fixed offset—such as speech being consistently 100 milliseconds late—can often be corrected with an A/V Sync or Audio Delay control. A delay that changes after pausing, seeking, or continuing playback is more likely to involve buffering, an app, firmware, audio-format conversion, or a device handshake. A slider may temporarily mask that kind of problem without solving its cause.
First find out where the problem occurs
Do not begin by changing several TV settings at random. Use a scene with clear dialogue and a visible mouth, and change only one variable at a time. Replay the same scene after each adjustment.
- Play a different movie or episode in the same app.
- Try another app or a live channel.
- If available, test an antenna channel or another live-TV source.
- Try another HDMI device, such as a game console or streaming stick.
- Switch to the TV’s built-in speakers.
- Then test the soundbar or receiver by itself.
| Where the problem occurs | Most likely area |
|---|---|
| One movie, episode, video, game, or disc | The title may be incorrectly authored, damaged, or poorly timed. |
| One streaming app | The app, title, app update, device cache, or app-specific audio format. |
| One live channel | The broadcaster, cable or satellite provider, or that channel’s feed. |
| One HDMI device | That device, its audio output format, HDMI cable, or HDMI path. |
| All sources through a soundbar or receiver | The external audio device, ARC/eARC or optical path, audio processing, or TV external-audio settings. |
| All sources through the TV speakers | TV picture or audio processing, firmware, or possibly TV hardware. |
| Bluetooth only | Wireless audio latency or a compatibility limitation. |
| TV speakers and soundbar together | Simultaneous-output echo caused by different processing times. |
This source-by-source approach is consistent with the troubleshooting guidance from Roku and Netflix, both of which distinguish a single title or source problem from a device-wide problem. If only one movie is affected, changing the TV’s global sync setting may make every other program worse.
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1. Power-cycle every affected device
A normal tap of the TV remote’s power button may leave connected equipment in standby. Perform a complete power cycle:
- Stop playback.
- Turn off the TV, streaming device, soundbar or receiver, and the source device.
- Unplug the affected equipment from power.
- Wait about 60 seconds.
- Reconnect the soundbar or receiver and source device first.
- Turn everything on and replay the same scene.
When restarting a Chromecast or Google TV device, unplug it from its power source—not just from HDMI. Google’s current troubleshooting instructions specify leaving it unplugged for one minute. A complete power reset can clear a temporary HDMI handshake, app, decoder, or buffering state.
2. Make sure only one speaker output is active
If the TV’s internal speakers and a soundbar are both audible, the result may sound like lip-sync failure even when each output is individually correct. Disable one output and test again.
Depending on the model, look for one of these settings:
- Sound Output or Audio Output
- TV Speaker or External Speaker
- TV Speaker + Soundbar
- Internal Speaker + Optical
- Use Multiple Speakers
Select the soundbar or receiver alone, or select TV Speaker alone. LG identifies simultaneous TV and external-speaker output as a common source of echo because the two devices process the signal at different speeds. See LG’s guidance on echo and out-of-sync external speakers.
3. Check the connection, ports, and input
For a soundbar or AV receiver connected by HDMI:
- Connect the cable to the TV port labeled ARC or eARC, not an ordinary HDMI input, when returning TV audio to the external device.
- Connect the other end to the soundbar or receiver port labeled ARC or eARC.
- Make sure the soundbar input matches the physical connection: HDMI, ARC/eARC, optical, Bluetooth, or another source.
- Reseat both ends of the cable.
- Temporarily remove HDMI switches, splitters, adapters, and intermediate devices.
- Try another known-good HDMI or optical cable if the problem affects only that path, or if audio drops out and ARC/eARC repeatedly disconnects.
ARC/eARC may also depend on HDMI-CEC. Manufacturers use different names for CEC, including Anynet+, BRAVIA Sync, Simplink, T-Link, HDMI Control, and VIERA Link. Enable the relevant HDMI-control setting if your TV or soundbar requires it. TCL’s audio troubleshooting guidance recommends checking the correct ARC/eARC ports, matching the TV audio output, enabling CEC where necessary, and testing another cable or source.
A cable is not the automatic explanation for every lip-sync problem. Replace or reseat it when the fault is limited to one HDMI route, the audio connection is unstable, the soundbar is not detected, or switches and adapters are involved. A current Google TV Streamer setup may specify an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1-certified cable, but that does not mean every TV lip-sync problem requires an HDMI 2.1 cable.
4. Simplify the audio format
Audio-format conversion is a common diagnostic variable. A TV, streaming box, soundbar, or receiver may decode, transcode, or downmix Dolby or DTS audio. Try these settings in order:
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- If the mismatch remains, try PCM.
- Replay the same scene.
- If PCM fixes the timing, decide whether the improvement is worth the format trade-off.
PCM is useful as a compatibility test, not a universal best setting. Depending on the equipment, it may output only two-channel stereo and remove surround-sound or Dolby Atmos capability. Samsung describes PCM as two-channel output and recommends the highest compatible format when surround sound is supported. If PCM fixes the problem but removes surround sound, the evidence points toward format handling or processing—not necessarily a bad TV panel.
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Common labels include Digital Audio Output, Digital Sound Output, Audio Format, Output Format, Pass-through, PCM, Auto, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, and Bitstream.
5. Temporarily disable extra processing
For diagnosis, turn off or reduce:
- Motion smoothing or motion interpolation
- Noise reduction
- Dialogue enhancement
- Volume leveling
- Virtual surround
- Automatic sound modes and other sound enhancements
- Unnecessary audio transcoding
If the audio is ahead of the picture, reduce picture processing first. Motion interpolation, scaling, noise reduction, and HDR processing can make the picture arrive later. Roku specifically recommends disabling advanced picture processing in this situation. If the audio is behind, reduce audio processing and try PCM or Pass-through. Google also identifies Dialogue enhancement and Volume leveler as possible contributors to sync problems; its Google TV troubleshooting page explains the relevant tests.
Gaming exception: do not permanently disable Game Mode just to fix a movie or TV show. Game Mode generally reduces display latency. Test video playback and gaming separately, and keep Game Mode enabled for games if it provides the lowest controller-to-screen delay.
6. Adjust A/V Sync or Audio Delay in the correct direction
Once you know the error is consistent, look for a control named:
- A/V Sync
- Audio Sync
- Lip Sync
- Audio Delay
- Digital Output Audio Delay
- Match Screen and Sound
- Picture/Sound Sync Control
- TV Speaker Delay
- Wired Headphones Delay
Change the control in small increments, replaying the same scene each time. Do not assume that a plus sign always means the same thing across brands. Some controls delay audio, some delay video, and some sliders use a direction that is not obvious from the label. If increasing the value makes the mismatch worse, reverse the adjustment.
Many systems can delay audio to match late video, but cannot make already-delayed audio play earlier. That is why the direction of the problem matters. When audio is late, reducing soundbar processing, using Pass-through or PCM, or changing the connection is usually more useful than adding more audio delay.
TV-brand menu paths
Menus vary by model, country, connection, and software version. Treat these as representative current paths. If a menu is missing, search the TV’s manual or settings for A/V Sync, Lip Sync, or Audio Delay.
Sony BRAVIA
For a sound system connected by HDMI or another external audio route, Sony’s current guide lists:
Settings → Display & Sound → Audio output → Audio system settings → A/V sync
For Bluetooth audio, the path may be:
Settings → Display & Sound → Audio output → Bluetooth device settings → A/V sync
Sony warns that A/V Sync may be fixed or unavailable in Game and PC content modes. If Bluetooth delay is significant, Sony recommends TV speakers or a wired HDMI or optical connection instead. See Sony’s BRAVIA A/V Sync guide and its Bluetooth lip-sync guidance.
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For LG models using webOS 6.0 or later, LG lists:
Settings → All Settings → Sound → Advanced Settings → Match Screen and Sound → Bypass
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LG’s guidance for models using webOS 25 or later lists the same general path and identifies Bypass as an available control. If Bypass does not help, turn it off and use the available delay control, such as Wired Headphones Delay on newer models.
Older LG televisions may instead use:
Settings → All Settings → Sound → AV Sync Adjustment
or:
Home → Settings → View All Settings → Sound → Picture/Sound Sync Control
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Samsung TVs and soundbars
On many current Samsung TVs, start at:
Settings → All Settings → Sound → Expert Settings
Relevant controls may include Digital Output Audio Format, Digital Output Audio Delay, and HDMI-eARC Mode. Samsung says Digital Output Audio Delay adjusts the timing between audio and video and may appear only when the TV uses HDMI-eARC or SPDIF, depending on model and region. Its current sound-settings documentation lists these model-dependent controls.
On some Samsung soundbars, press Sound Control on the remote and select Audio Sync, then use Audio Sync +/−. Samsung notes that this control is not available when Bluetooth or USB is the selected source. Consult Samsung’s soundbar audio-sync troubleshooting page for the particular soundbar.
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TCL Roku TVs
For a TCL Roku TV using an HDMI speaker or soundbar, TCL lists:
Settings → Audio → S/PDIF and ARC/eARC → Auto passthrough
Test another app or channel and power-cycle the TV and soundbar as well. The exact menu can vary with the Roku TV software version. See TCL’s Roku TV audio-delay guide.
Hisense TVs
Hisense manuals commonly include Digital Audio Delay, Lip Sync, and Digital Audio Out. The exact availability depends on model, country, audio-output mode, and software version. Hisense documentation describes Digital Audio Delay as synchronizing external-speaker audio with the image, while Lip Sync synchronizes displayed video with the audio output. Check the manual for your model rather than assuming every Hisense TV has the same menu.
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Bluetooth headphones and speakers need special treatment
Bluetooth audio can add noticeable latency because the sound is encoded, transmitted wirelessly, buffered, and decoded before reaching the listener. Some TVs and speakers compensate for it; others cannot. Sony says Bluetooth may produce a noticeable delay and recommends TV speakers or wired HDMI/optical audio when the delay is substantial. Samsung also notes that some soundbar sync controls are unavailable while Bluetooth is selected.
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For a useful comparison, test in this order:
- TV speakers
- A soundbar connected by HDMI ARC/eARC
- A wired optical connection
- A television-compatible low-latency wireless system
- RF or proprietary wireless TV headphones designed for synchronized listening
Do not assume that turning on A/V Sync will fully correct every Bluetooth device. Sony explicitly warns that picture and sound may still fail to match even when A/V Sync is set to On or Auto. If wired audio is synchronized but Bluetooth is not, the wireless connection—not the TV panel—is the leading suspect.
Streaming devices and apps
Google TV Streamer
Restart the device through:
All settings → System → Restart
If that does not help, unplug it from power for one minute. Then check:
Display & Sound → Audio Options → Output format
- Try Automatic when the connected equipment supports the format.
- Disable Dialogue enhancement and Volume leveler.
- Temporarily disable surround sound.
- Reboot the router if playback is dropping frames, buffering, or losing sync.
These are the current categories in Google’s Google TV Streamer sync troubleshooting; labels can differ on older Chromecast devices.
Apple TV 4K
If you use wireless speakers with an Apple TV 4K, open:
Settings → Video and Audio → Calibration → Wireless Audio Sync
Apple says the Apple TV uses an iPhone to measure the latency of the TV or wired speakers and synchronize wireless speakers to it. This is particularly useful when wired and wireless speakers are being used together. See Apple’s Wireless Audio Sync guide.
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- Force-close and relaunch the app.
- Restart the TV or streaming device.
- Install any available app update.
- Clear the app cache if the platform provides that option.
- Play the same title on another device.
- Report the title or app problem to the provider if other programs work normally.
For Netflix, test other shows or movies, restart the device, check HDMI or optical connections, and try a different audio format such as Dolby Digital 5.1 or Stereo. Netflix recommends reporting a title-specific issue when other titles play correctly; its audio/video sync troubleshooting page explains that distinction.
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TV to soundbar through HDMI ARC/eARC
ARC/eARC is convenient because one cable can carry audio from built-in TV apps and external sources while HDMI-CEC may allow a shared remote. eARC can also support higher-bandwidth formats when the TV, soundbar, and source are compatible.
However, the TV may still process or convert the audio, and ARC/eARC can experience handshake, port, CEC, firmware, or format-compatibility problems. Use Automatic or Pass-through where supported, then try PCM as a diagnostic test. Do not leave PCM enabled permanently if it removes a surround or Atmos format you want.
Source device to soundbar, then soundbar to TV
When a streaming box, disc player, or console is connected directly to the TV and audio returns through ARC/eARC, the TV may add processing or conversion. Connecting the source to an HDMI input on the soundbar or receiver can sometimes improve synchronization because the sound processing begins before the video is passed to the TV. Sony lists this arrangement as a possible workaround in its HDMI source and soundbar troubleshooting guidance.
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- The soundbar or receiver must support the source’s resolution, HDR mode, refresh rate, and audio format.
- A soundbar with limited HDMI inputs may not accommodate every device.
- Gamers must retest 4K, HDR, high refresh rate, VRR, and console input latency after changing the route.
- An intermediary that does not support a video feature can prevent the TV from receiving it.
Optical audio
Optical is a useful fallback for older equipment and can avoid some ARC/eARC handshake problems. It is audio-only and has format limitations. Samsung says optical connections cannot support modes beyond 5.1 channels in the referenced setup. You may gain reliability while losing access to newer surround formats, and you will still need a separate video connection.
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Bluetooth
Bluetooth is convenient but is generally the least dependable choice when exact speech timing matters. Use wired HDMI ARC/eARC or optical as the comparison connection before deciding that the TV itself is at fault.
Fixes for specific symptoms
The sound comes before the lips
- Test TV speakers to see whether the external speaker is responsible.
- Reduce motion smoothing and other advanced picture processing.
- Disable Bluetooth and compare a wired connection.
- Use the soundbar’s or TV’s A/V Sync control to add a small audio delay.
- Test Pass-through or PCM if the problem began with surround or Dolby audio.
If the sound is early on only one stream or channel, stop adjusting the global delay and investigate the source instead.
The sound comes after the lips
- Reduce dialogue enhancement, virtual surround, volume leveling, and other audio processing.
- Try Pass-through or PCM.
- Use Bypass if your LG TV provides Match Screen and Sound.
- Try HDMI ARC/eARC or optical instead of Bluetooth.
- Check the soundbar’s own Audio Sync control; increasing a TV audio delay would make this symptom worse.
The delay changes during playback or gets worse over time
A fixed sync value is unlikely to be a complete solution. Restart the app and source, test another title, update firmware, simplify the audio format, and check for buffering or network interruptions. If the offset grows over several minutes, that is a diagnostic clue—not proof of a particular failed component—that the app, stream, wireless link, firmware, or device timing may be unstable.
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Test several channels. If one channel is out of sync while others are normal, contact the broadcaster, cable provider, satellite provider, or live-TV service. If every channel is affected, compare an app and the TV speakers. LG says a problem confined to particular channels is more likely to originate in the broadcast signal, while a problem on all channels points more toward the TV or external audio system.
Only one app is affected
Restart and update the app, restart the streaming device, clear its cache if possible, and test the title on another device. If other apps are synchronized, do not factory-reset the TV first. An app update, title-specific stream, or service-side problem is more plausible.
TV speakers and soundbar echo
Turn off one output. If you need both outputs for a supported multi-speaker arrangement, use the TV’s speaker-sync or A/V-sync feature. Moving the soundbar farther away will not fix two separately processed copies of the same signal; the devices must be synchronized or one output must be disabled.
Games are out of sync
- Prefer wired HDMI audio over Bluetooth.
- Keep Game Mode enabled unless testing proves it causes a specific game-related problem.
- Check game sync separately from movie and TV playback.
- If the console passes through the soundbar, verify 4K, HDR, refresh rate, VRR, and input latency.
- Remember that Sony notes A/V Sync may be unavailable in Game or PC content modes.
Higher-resolution or HDR video and Dolby or other surround formats can change the processing path and expose a mismatch that simpler content did not reveal. They do not automatically cause lip-sync problems.
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When to contact the broadcaster, app provider, or manufacturer
Contact the broadcaster, cable provider, satellite provider, or streaming service when the problem is limited to one live channel, one title, or one app while other sources are normal.
Contact the TV, soundbar, or receiver manufacturer—or arrange service—when:
- All built-in apps, all inputs, and the TV speakers are out of sync.
- The problem continues after a full power cycle, software updates, and a simple audio-format test.
- The delay is severe or unstable and is accompanied by audio dropouts, picture glitches, or HDMI failures.
- The TV cannot maintain sync even with a simple internal test source and no external speaker connected.
- A factory reset does not help.
Factory reset should be a last resort. It erases app data, logins, preferences, picture settings, and other customizations, and it cannot repair a bad broadcast or incorrectly timed title.
Quick reference
| Symptom | Best first test |
|---|---|
| One title only | Try another title; report the affected title if other programs work. |
| One channel only | Test other channels and contact the broadcaster or provider. |
| One app only | Restart and update the app and streaming device; clear the cache if available. |
| Bluetooth only | Use TV speakers, HDMI ARC/eARC, or optical audio. |
| Soundbar only | Adjust the soundbar’s A/V Sync, then test Pass-through and PCM. |
| TV and soundbar echo | Disable one speaker output. |
| All sources | Check TV processing, firmware, external-audio settings, and the relevant delay control. |
| Problem changes over time | Restart, update, simplify the audio format, test another title, and investigate the app, network, or wireless connection. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I increase the audio delay when the sound does not match the lips?
Only when the audio is ahead of the picture and the offset is consistent. If the lips move first and the sound comes later, adding audio delay will make the problem worse; reduce audio processing, try Pass-through or PCM, or use a wired connection instead.
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The likely causes are soundbar processing, ARC/eARC or optical settings, audio-format conversion, a cable or HDMI handshake, or Bluetooth latency. Test the soundbar alone, try Pass-through or PCM, check its Audio Sync control, and compare HDMI with optical.
Can Bluetooth headphones be perfectly synchronized with a TV?
Sometimes, but not with every TV and Bluetooth device. Wireless encoding and buffering can add latency that the TV cannot fully correct. Compare TV speakers or wired HDMI/optical audio; a TV-compatible low-latency or RF headphone system may be more reliable.
Does PCM fix TV lip-sync problems permanently?
PCM can identify or bypass an audio-format compatibility problem, but it may reduce output to stereo and remove surround or Atmos features. Keep it only if the trade-off is acceptable or your equipment requires it.
The Bottom Line
Start by identifying whether the sound is early or late and whether the error affects one title, app, channel, device, or every source. Then use one speaker output, power-cycle the equipment for about 60 seconds, check ARC/eARC and cables, test Automatic or Pass-through followed by PCM, disable unnecessary processing, and adjust the correct A/V Sync control in small steps. Bluetooth, one-channel problems, and changing delays usually require a connection or source-level fix rather than a larger sync-slider value.
