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The most practical homemade Minecraft Verity costume is a lightweight two-panel design: cut two 15-inch yellow EVA-foam circles, reinforce them with corrugated cardboard, add Verity’s two upright black oval eyes and thin curved smile to the front, then wear the panels over black clothing with elastic straps. This creates the bright yellow, rounded silhouette people recognize without enclosing your head, blocking your vision or trapping heat.
The instructions below target Verity’s friendly orb form from ThatMob’s Minecraft horror series. It is a fan-made interpretation, not an official costume pattern or licensed product. The dimensions are a starting point; measure the wearer and adjust the circle before cutting the foam.
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What a recognizable Verity costume looks like
Verity is presented as a bright yellow, smiley-faced AI assistant in a Minecraft horror series created by YouTuber ThatMob in May 2026. The character’s friendly form is deliberately simple: a yellow rounded body, two upright black oval eyes and one narrow black smile. That simplicity is useful for a home costume because the silhouette and face do most of the identification work.
Later horror and demon interpretations can change Verity’s expression, colors or shape. This guide is for the friendly orb form. Avoid adding teeth, eyebrows, pupils, blood effects or extra emoji features if your goal is the familiar yellow smiling character. A busy face can look like a generic emoji rather than Verity.
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The costume uses a front panel and a back panel rather than a closed sphere. Each panel is a flat yellow circle supported by cardboard. Black elastic runs over the shoulders or around the sides to hold the panels in place. A black long-sleeve shirt, black joggers and slip-on shoes form a dark background so the yellow face remains the dominant visual element; the clothing is practical understructure, not part of Verity’s character design.
Why two panels are better than a wearable sphere
- Your head stays uncovered, so you can see normally, hear clearly and remove the costume quickly.
- Your arms remain outside the yellow shape, making doors, stairs, phones and snacks easier to handle.
- Two flat panels use less foam, glue and time than a full shell.
- The cardboard backing keeps the circles from folding while remaining light enough for walking and sitting.
- The panels store flat and can be repaired or reused without rebuilding a large structure.
A completely enclosed sphere can look dramatic in photographs, but it introduces visibility, ventilation, heat and collision problems. If you experiment with one, treat the safety requirements later in this article as mandatory rather than optional decoration.
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The key purchase is a yellow EVA foam roll large enough for two matching circles. Felt and elastic are supporting purchases. Before buying, check the roll’s width and length against your circle diameter; a 15-inch circle needs at least 30 inches of usable width if both circles are cut side by side, or enough total length to place them separately.
| Material or tool | How it is used | Buying and preparation notes |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow EVA foam roll | Visible surface of both round panels | Choose a flexible sheet with a consistent yellow color. The roll must fit two 15-inch circles, with spare material for mistakes or repairs. |
| Recycled corrugated cardboard | Backs the foam and prevents sagging | Use clean, flat cardboard large enough for two matching circles. Remove or trim any flaps that extend beyond the foam. |
| Black adhesive felt | Eyes and smile on the front panel | Adhesive-backed felt avoids wet glue on the face. Keep scraps for repairs. |
| Black elastic roll | Shoulder or side straps that hold the panels | Use enough for paired straps plus extra for knots, stitching and adjustments. |
| Paper | Full-size circle template and face-layout guide | Several taped sheets are fine if one sheet is not wide enough for a 15-inch circle. |
| Pencil and ruler | Marking circles, eyes, smile and strap positions | A long ruler helps keep the face centered and the smile level. |
| Scissors | Cut foam, felt, paper and elastic | Use sharp scissors for clean foam and felt edges; blunt blades can tear adhesive felt. |
| Packing tape | Reinforces strap slits on the cardboard backing | Apply several overlapping strips around each slit before threading elastic. |
| Needle and thread | Secures elastic ends back onto themselves | Use strong thread and multiple passes. A stitched connection is easier to inspect than a hidden knot. |
| Craft glue labelled for EVA foam and cardboard | Bonds each foam circle to its cardboard circle | Follow the product label for application, clamping and cure time. Do not assume every craft adhesive is compatible with both materials. |
| Black long-sleeve shirt, joggers and slip-on shoes | Comfortable dark base layer | Choose clothing that permits a full range of motion and does not snag the straps. |
Search terms such as yellow EVA foam roll, black adhesive felt and black elastic roll describe the components without locking you into a particular seller. Measure first; a cheaper roll that is too narrow can cost more after a failed cut.
Choose the size before cutting anything
The supported fan pattern starts with two 15-inch circles. That diameter is not a universal Verity specification; it is a practical starting point for an average wearer. The panels should sit below the neck, cover the torso, leave both arms free and avoid touching the knees when you walk.
- Tape paper sheets together and draw a 15-inch circle. A plate, string-and-pencil compass or large lid can help, but verify the diameter with a ruler.
- Hold the paper circle against the wearer’s chest while they stand naturally. Mark the top position just below the neck and check that the lower edge does not interfere with the hips or knees.
- Ask the wearer to raise both arms, reach forward and turn sideways. Reduce the diameter if the circle catches the elbows or blocks the hands.
- For a child or smaller adult, make a second paper circle at the proposed diameter and repeat the movement test. Do not scale by height alone; shoulder width and torso length determine fit.
- Make a second paper copy only after the first fits. Matching templates prevent a front and back panel from ending up different sizes.
Keep the paper templates. They are useful for replacing a damaged panel, cutting a new face or making a smaller version for another wearer.
Build the two yellow panels
1. Trace and cut the foam
Place the paper template on the yellow EVA foam and trace around it twice. Keep the pencil line on the waste side of the cut so the finished circles remain close to the intended diameter. Cut slowly with long, controlled scissor strokes. If the foam edge develops a notch, smooth it now rather than trying to hide it with the face.
Label one circle front on its back with a light pencil mark and label the other rear. The rear panel should remain plain yellow. Do not cut face features into the foam; felt gives you cleaner edges and allows replacement.
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2. Trace and cut the cardboard backs
Trace the same template twice on recycled corrugated cardboard. Cut just inside the pencil line so the cardboard will not protrude beyond the yellow edge. A cardboard edge that extends past the foam can catch clothing, scrape a doorway or become visible from the side.
Inspect both cardboard circles for bent corners, exposed staples and loose layers. Remove staples and cover any rough spot with tape. The cardboard is a structural backing, so a small defect can become a sharp point after the panel flexes.
3. Glue foam to cardboard
Apply the adhesive labelled as compatible with EVA foam and cardboard according to its instructions. Spread it evenly rather than creating one thick central blob; uneven glue can leave ridges visible through the foam. Align the foam and cardboard edges, press the surfaces together and let the bond set for the full label-specified time.
Do not rush to cut strap slits while the adhesive is soft. Early handling can shift the circles or pull the foam away from the cardboard. After curing, trim any cardboard that still extends beyond the yellow edge. Run a finger around the perimeter to find lifted sections and re-glue them before adding straps.
4. Plan the front face on paper first
Use the spare paper template as a placement guide. The researched fan pattern uses two upright black oval eyes approximately 1.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches high and a narrow smile about 8 inches wide. Those measurements describe a starting layout, not a creator-approved specification.
Draw the eyes and smile on paper, cut the shapes out and place them on the front panel. Step back several feet and check that the eyes are level, vertically oriented and balanced around the centerline. Place the smile below them with enough yellow space to keep the face open. Adjust the paper repeatedly; adhesive felt is difficult to reposition cleanly once pressed.
5. Cut and apply the felt eyes
Trace the two upright ovals on the back of the black adhesive felt. Cut with smooth strokes and keep both ovals the same height. Peel only part of the backing from the first eye, align it with the paper layout, then press outward to reduce wrinkles. Repeat for the second eye.
Look at the panel from straight on and from the normal distance at which people will see the costume. Slight asymmetry is acceptable and can look handmade, but a visibly tilted eye changes the expression. If the felt has a loose corner, press it down immediately; do not add a thick glue ridge over the visible face.
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6. Cut the thin curved smile
Draw an approximately 8-inch smile on paper before transferring it to felt. A shallow, continuous curve is closer to the friendly orb design than a wide grin with teeth. Cut the felt slowly, turning the material rather than forcing the scissors around a tight bend.
Apply the smile only after the eyes are fixed. Center it between the panel edges and keep its ends slightly higher than its middle if that matches your template. Avoid eyebrows, pupils, cheek circles and additional symbols: the two eyes and one thin smile are the high-value recognition cues.
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7. Add reinforced elastic straps
Decide where the elastic will pass before making holes. The straps should hold each panel against the torso without crossing the face. Mark paired slits on the cardboard backing near the upper left and upper right areas, leaving enough material around each slit that the cardboard will not tear.
- Cut narrow slits through the cardboard and foam only where the strap will pass. Keep the slit just wide enough for the elastic.
- Cover the area around each slit with overlapping packing tape on the back. Press the tape firmly so it bonds to the cardboard and spreads the pulling force.
- Thread black elastic through each paired slit. Keep the front panel and rear panel strap lengths equal at first.
- Fold each elastic end back onto itself and stitch through several layers, or use another secure method that cannot slip through the reinforced slit.
- Trim loose tails and cover scratchy thread ends with tape on the back. Nothing abrasive should face the wearer.
Elastic tension should hold the panels close enough to stay aligned but not compress the chest or shoulders. If the costume relies on a very tight strap to remain upright, move the slits or add a wider strap rather than increasing pressure.
8. Test the fit before decorating further
Put on the black shirt, joggers and shoes, then add both yellow panels. Stand in front of a mirror and check that the front sits below the neck, the face is centered and the rear panel is not twisting.
- Walk across the room and back.
- Turn left and right without the panels striking your arms.
- Sit in a chair and stand up again.
- Climb a few steps while holding the handrail normally.
- Reach for a door handle, pick up a light object and use a phone.
- Check that the elastic does not rub the neck, pinch the armpits or slide toward the face.
Make adjustments now, before an event. Shorten both sides evenly if the panel hangs low; lengthen them if the top edge touches the throat. If one side twists, compare the slit positions and strap lengths rather than pulling one shoulder tighter.
Face proportions that keep Verity recognizable
Recognition comes from restraint. The yellow field should occupy most of the panel, with the black features serving as a simple graphic rather than a detailed character portrait.
| Feature | Starting measurement or placement | What to watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Eyes | Two upright ovals, about 1.5 inches wide by 2.5 inches high | Keep their tops and bottoms level. Horizontal or circular eyes make the character read differently. |
| Smile | One thin curved line, about 8 inches wide | Keep it narrow and continuous. Teeth, fangs or a thick open mouth shift the design toward a horror variant. |
| Spacing | Centered as a group on the front panel | Use a paper layout and view it from several feet away before exposing adhesive. |
| Color | Bright yellow panel with black features | Do not add large secondary colors unless you intentionally want a different interpretation. |
Lighting changes how yellow foam appears. Check the finished panel under indoor light and outside daylight. If the face seems too low or too small, fix the paper layout on the second template rather than layering extra felt over the first attempt.
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Comfort, visibility and safety checks
The open two-panel design leaves the wearer’s head and arms uncovered and does not use painted eyes as a viewing system. That is its main safety advantage. Nevertheless, test the complete costume, including shoes and straps, before wearing it in a crowd.
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- Keep rigid cardboard edges rounded and fully covered by foam or tape.
- Do not place hard decorations where they can strike another person during a turn.
- Confirm that the lower edge does not catch chair arms, stair rails or the wearer’s knees.
- Use slip-on shoes only if they fit securely; footwear that slides off is a bigger trip risk than a loose panel.
- Have a helper watch the first movement test from the side. A wearer cannot see a rear panel twisting or catching behind them.
Heat and ventilation
Two flat panels allow air to circulate around the torso. Choose a breathable black base layer and remove the panels if the wearer becomes overheated, dizzy or short of breath. Do not seal foam around the neck or tape a panel directly to skin.
Quick removal
The wearer should be able to release the elastic without scissors. A quick-release buckle can be substituted for a stitched loop if it is compatible with the strap and does not create a hard point against the body. Practice removing the front and rear panels while standing still, then repeat while seated.
If you attempt an enclosed sphere
A larger shell is a different safety project, not simply a bigger version of this pattern. It needs a clear forward viewing opening, ventilation gaps, lightweight materials, secure edges, a torso-distributed harness and a quick-release support. Test walking, turning, sitting and climbing before adding final decorations. Never rely on small painted eye holes, and never make the wearer’s head carry the full weight of the shell.
Alternatives and when each makes sense
Not every wearer needs a full DIY build. Compare options by visual match, construction effort, mobility and visibility, comfort and heat, reusability, and recognizability to people familiar with Minecraft.
| Option | Visual match to Verity | Effort | Mobility and comfort | Reusability | Recognition trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Two yellow foam panels | Best match for the friendly yellow orb | Moderate cutting, gluing and strap work | Open head and arms; generally cooler than a shell | Stores flat and can be repaired | Highly recognizable to people who know the character |
| DIY enclosed yellow sphere | Strong silhouette in photographs | High; requires a frame, harness and safety testing | Lower visibility, more heat and more collision risk | Bulky to store and harder to repair | Can be mistaken for a generic mascot if the face is wrong |
| Ready-made Creeper or Steve costume | Low for Verity | Fastest setup | Depends on the garment; usually familiar to wearers | Often reusable for general Minecraft events | Strong Minecraft recognition, but not the yellow orb character |
| Minecraft apparel with a yellow accessory | Lowest character specificity | Minimal construction | Most comfortable for long wear | Highest everyday reusability | Reads as Minecraft clothing rather than Verity |
Choose the two-panel build when the character match matters more than instant setup. Choose ordinary Minecraft clothing when the event involves extended walking, hot weather or strict costume rules. Choose an enclosed form only when an experienced builder can provide safe viewing, ventilation and a reliable release system.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Troubleshooting common build problems
The foam curls or collapses
The cardboard may be too thin, the adhesive may not have cured, or the panel may have been stored leaning against an edge. Place the panel flat while it sets, reinforce weak areas from the back and store it horizontally. Do not add heavy decorations to compensate for a flexible structure.
The cardboard shows around the edge
Trim it carefully from the back with scissors or a craft knife used by a responsible adult. If trimming would weaken the circle, cover the edge with a narrow yellow foam strip. The finished edge should be soft and continuous, with no exposed corrugation.
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The felt face is crooked
For a small error, warm the adhesive gently with your hands and lift the felt slowly from one corner; aggressive pulling can tear the foam surface. For a large error, cut a replacement oval or smile from spare felt. Mark a centerline on the panel and use the paper layout again instead of correcting by eye.
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The straps pull through
Remove the elastic and inspect the slits. Add more packing tape around the back, move the slit farther from the edge if there is room, and stitch a longer section of elastic back onto itself. If the cardboard is crushed, replace the backing rather than trusting a damaged hole.
The front panel rotates while walking
Check that the two shoulder straps are the same length and that the rear panel is aligned. A third stabilizing strap around the side or waist can reduce rotation, but it must not restrict breathing or make quick removal difficult. Re-test while sitting and reaching.
The face does not read as Verity
Remove extra details first. Recheck the bright yellow color, upright black oval eyes, thin curved smile and centered placement. A simple face with the correct proportions is more recognizable than a detailed face with teeth, pupils or exaggerated expressions.
Storage, transport and reuse
Lift each panel by its cardboard back rather than pulling on the felt. Store the front and rear circles flat, separated by clean paper if the adhesive felt might touch another surface. Keep them away from direct heat and moisture, which can warp cardboard and loosen adhesive.
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After the event, inspect the strap stitches, taped slits, foam perimeter and felt corners. Repair a loose connection before the next wear. Because the face is felt rather than paint, you can replace a damaged eye or smile without discarding the yellow panels.
What the finished costume communicates
From a distance, the intended read is immediate: a bright yellow rounded character with two black upright eyes and a single smiling curve. The dark clothing recedes behind that graphic. The open construction lets the wearer see, breathe, move and remove the costume quickly, which is more useful at a real Halloween event than a heavy shell that looks impressive only while standing still.
Verity has active fan interest: the VerityMinecraft guide reported more than 22 million combined downloads on September 8, 2026, and a CurseForge skin listing reported 9,474 downloads after an October 9, 2026 update. Those figures show attention around the character, not an official physical-costume market. Treat this project as an adaptable fan build and label it accordingly if you display or sell it.
Final checklist before wearing it outside
- Both panels are the same diameter and the cardboard does not protrude.
- The front face has only two upright black oval eyes and one thin curved smile unless you intentionally chose another interpretation.
- All strap slits are reinforced, and elastic ends cannot pull through.
- The front panel sits below the neck and leaves both arms free.
- You can walk, turn, sit, climb a few steps and reach a door without catching the costume.
- You can remove the panels quickly without scissors.
- Edges, stitches and tape are smooth against the wearer and other people.
- The panels are stored flat and transported without bending.
For most home makers, two 15-inch yellow EVA-foam panels backed with cardboard deliver the best balance of appearance, safety, cost and effort. Start with the paper template, keep the face simple, and do the movement test before adding anything that makes the costume heavier or harder to remove.
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