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The right repair depends on the miniature’s material and the type of damage. Warm a bent plastic or resin part and reshape it gradually; weld a clean break in polystyrene plastic with plastic cement; use cyanoacrylate super glue for resin, metal, mixed-material, or painted joints; and reinforce any load-bearing break with a drilled metal pin. Finish by filling the seam, smoothing it, priming, and repainting.
Work slowly and support the miniature by its base. Heat, drilling, and adhesives can permanently damage detail or injure you if used carelessly, so the procedures below separate cosmetic repairs from structural ones.
Identify the material and the damage first
Before applying heat or glue, determine what the part is made from. A standard Games Workshop plastic kit is normally polystyrene. Resin and metal may look similar after assembly, but they require different preparation and adhesives. Mixed-material assemblies, such as a resin arm on a plastic body, should be treated as resin or metal at the joint.
| Material | Typical damage | Adhesive for a bare joint | Important preparation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polystyrene plastic | Clean snap, warped thin part | Plastic cement | Remove loose debris and paint; dry-fit before cementing |
| Resin | Warp, brittle break, heavy accessory failure | Cyanoacrylate super glue | Wash away mould-release residue in warm soapy water and dry completely |
| Metal | Sheared or detached heavy part | Super glue; two-part epoxy for a large, heavily loaded gap | File or scrape to clean metal; pin substantial joints |
| Mixed materials | Joint between unlike parts | Super glue | Clean both surfaces; do not rely on plastic cement to bond resin or metal |
Next, classify the failure:
- A bend or warp: the part is still attached and has not fractured. Controlled heat can relax it so you can restore the original shape.
- A clean, close-fitting break: the two faces meet with little or no missing material. The appropriate adhesive can make a strong joint without drilling.
- A structural break: the joint carries a weapon, wing, banner, antenna, ankle, or another part that is long, heavy, or frequently handled. Reinforce it with one or two pins.
- A damaged or painted contact area: loose paint, old glue, or a gap prevents a reliable bond. Prepare the actual contact surfaces, not the visible painted area around them.
How to straighten a bent plastic or resin part
Heat only the affected section. Thin swords, antennae, banner poles, gun barrels, and limbs soften quickly; thick components need more time. Hot water is usually easier to control than a flame and keeps the heat distributed around the part.
Controlled hot-water method
- Fill a heat-safe container with hot water. It should be hot enough to soften the part but not boiling vigorously. Keep the miniature’s painted body and base out of the water whenever possible.
- Grip the part with tweezers or another heat-safe tool. Immerse only the warped section and watch it continuously. Resin guides from Games Workshop and Mantic both recommend hot water for correcting warps.
- When the part becomes flexible, remove it and gently twist or press it toward the intended shape. Use several small adjustments rather than one forceful bend; forcing a softened detail can crease or stretch it.
- Hold the corrected alignment and place the part in cold water to set the shape. Keep it supported until it is fully cool.
- Inspect the result from several angles. Repeat the warm-and-cool cycle if necessary, increasing the time gradually for a thick section rather than raising the temperature sharply.
For a large resin piece that cannot be submerged, a hot-air gun or hair dryer can work. Use the lowest practical setting, keep the airflow moving, and heat the target area in short passes. Shield nearby details and your fingers. Stop as soon as the resin begins to flex.
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Heat-related mistakes to avoid
- Never use a naked flame on resin. Games Workshop’s 2024 guide, A Guide to Building Resin Models, states: “DO NOT USE A NAKED FLAME TO HEAT THE RESIN!” A flame can scorch the surface, ignite contaminants, or deform a larger area than intended.
- Do not immerse the whole painted model unless you accept the risk of softened paint, detached parts, or water trapped inside the base.
- Do not bend a cold resin part repeatedly. Resin can snap without much warning; warm it first.
- Do not try to correct a part while it is attached to a fragile neighboring detail. Remove the part if that lets you heat and support it safely.
If the bend returns
A part that springs back usually was not warmed through its full thickness or was released before cooling. Repeat the cycle with more time at the same gentle heat, reshape it with a simple temporary support, and leave it undisturbed until completely cool. If the original shape is unclear, compare the opposite limb or a reference model before making another adjustment.
Repair a clean break in polystyrene plastic
Plastic cement is the correct choice for a clean break in standard polystyrene miniature plastic. Unlike super glue, cement partially dissolves the plastic faces and allows them to fuse as the solvent evaporates. It cannot chemically weld resin or metal.
- Dry-fit first. Hold the broken faces together without adhesive. Check that the pose, angle, and surrounding parts line up. Mark the orientation mentally or with a tiny pencil line on an unpainted area.
- Clean the faces. Remove loose fragments, dust, flaky paint, and old glue from the contact surfaces. A sharp hobby knife or fine file can level a small high spot, but do not remove material unnecessarily.
- Apply a controlled amount of cement. Touch the brush to the joint so capillary action draws solvent between the faces. Excess cement can soften nearby detail, leave a depression, or smear the surface.
- Press and align. Hold the pieces together until they stop shifting. A clamp or a strip of low-tack tape can maintain pressure when your hands would obscure the joint.
- Allow a full cure. The surface may feel firm quickly while the interior remains weak. Leave the model supported and unhandled until the cement has cured; thick or load-bearing joints need longer than a thin decorative break.
A narrow bead of slightly softened plastic at the seam can be useful: once cured, it can be scraped or sanded flush. If the faces do not meet because material is missing, treat the gap as a filling job and consider a pin rather than trying to bridge it with cement alone.
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When a plastic break needs a pin anyway
Add reinforcement when the break is unusually thin, supports a heavy accessory, lies at an ankle or wrist, or has already failed more than once. A welded plastic joint can be strong, but repeated bending and transport can still fatigue a small contact area. Pinning is described in detail below.
Repair broken resin, metal, or mixed-material parts
Prepare resin before gluing
Resin parts can carry mould-release residue that prevents super glue from gripping. Wash the detached part in warm water with a small amount of dish soap, gently scrub it with a soft toothbrush, rinse, and let it dry completely. Do not rush to glue damp resin. Scrape away loose paint and old adhesive from both faces so the new glue contacts sound material.
Glue the joint with cyanoacrylate
- Dry-fit the pieces and decide how they will be held in alignment. Super glue sets quickly, so resolve the pose before opening the bottle.
- Apply a small drop to one face. A fine applicator, needle, or scrap of wire gives better control than squeezing directly from the nozzle.
- Join the faces once, align them, and hold them steady. Avoid repeatedly pulling the pieces apart; that spreads glue and contaminates the surfaces.
- Leave the assembly untouched until the adhesive has cured. Follow the product’s stated cure time, allowing longer for a thick or poorly ventilated joint.
Super glue is also the practical adhesive for a plastic-to-resin or plastic-to-metal joint because plastic cement will not chemically bond the unlike material. On a large metal gap or a joint carrying substantial weight, two-part modelling epoxy can provide a broader, tougher bed after the parts have been pinned and aligned.
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Metal-specific considerations
File a glossy or rough broken metal face only enough to expose clean metal and remove burrs. A metal part’s weight creates leverage, so a glued surface that looks adequate may peel away during handling. Drill and pin heavy weapons, wings, banner poles, and ankles rather than relying on a thin layer of adhesive. Keep metal supported while the glue cures; its mass can make a joint sag out of alignment.
Pin a structural break for long-term strength
Pinning places a small metal rod through both sides of a joint. The pin carries bending and shear forces while the adhesive holds the surfaces together. Use it when the joint is narrow, heavy, load-bearing, or likely to be knocked during play and transport. A single pin is adequate for many joints; use two pins when the connection must resist twisting or rotation.
Tools and materials
- A miniature pin vice and a model drill bit. The iFixit Warhammer repair procedure shows a 1 mm model drill for this work.
- Fine brass rod or other straight metal pinning wire, sized to fit the drilled holes.
- Super glue for resin, metal, and mixed-material joints; plastic cement may be used on a polystyrene joint, but the pin itself still needs an adhesive that grips the surrounding material.
- Side cutters, a file, tweezers, and a marker or scribe for locating the holes.
Pinning procedure
- Plan the line. Choose a drilling direction that crosses as much sound material as possible without emerging through a visible surface. For a wrist or ankle, the pin should run along the limb rather than toward the outside of the model.
- Mark matching centers. Place a tiny indentation in the center of each broken face. If the faces are irregular, temporarily fit them and mark one side through a guide hole or a short piece of wire.
- Drill the first face. Use the pin vice by hand, keeping the bit aligned with the planned line. Drill slowly and clear shavings often. Stop before breaking through the visible side.
- Transfer the position. Cut a short piece of wire, dip its tip in a removable marker, and press it into the first hole. Fit the parts together once; the mark indicates where the matching hole belongs on the other face.
- Drill the second face. Match the depth and angle of the first hole. A hole that points differently will force the joint out of alignment even if the surfaces touch.
- Test the pin. Insert the rod dry and bring the parts together. It should enter both holes without forcing a gap. Enlarge a hole slightly if needed; do not hammer the pin into brittle resin.
- Cut and fit the rod. Cut a length that sits below both surfaces when the parts meet. File the ends smooth and test-fit again.
- Glue the reinforcement. Apply adhesive inside the holes and on the joint faces, insert the rod, and close the joint. Wipe away squeeze-out before it cures.
- Hold alignment through curing. Use a jig, tape, or a steady grip. Do not rotate or pose the part while the adhesive is setting.
- Add a second pin when needed. Place two pins spaced apart across a wide joint. Their separation prevents the part from pivoting around one central rod.
Do not force a pin into a hole that is too shallow, too close to an edge, or filled with swarf. Drilling through a visible surface creates more damage than the original break. If there is not enough material for a pin, increase the contact area with careful reshaping or use a small epoxy fillet around the hidden side after the adhesive cures.
Repair a painted miniature without destroying the finish
Paint and old glue are barriers between the repair adhesive and the model. Protect the surrounding finish with masking tape or a removable shield, then expose only the actual contact faces. Scrape loose paint and brittle glue carefully; do not strip an entire panel when a narrow bare track is enough.
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After the joint is aligned and cured, inspect it under strong light. A hairline crack can be filled with modelling putty. Press a small amount into the seam, let it cure, then smooth it with a fine file or abrasive. Keep the tool on the filler rather than the surrounding detail. Prime the repaired area before repainting so the new layer has an even surface and sheen.
For an extensive break that has crushed or removed detail, rebuild the missing shape with putty in several thin applications rather than one oversized lump. Let each layer cure, refine it, and compare both sides of the miniature. A local touch-up often blends better than repainting the entire model, but a large repair crossing several colors or highlights may require a broader repaint to hide the transition.
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| Situation | Preferred method | Why it fits | What can go wrong |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bent thin plastic or resin | Gentle hot water, reshape, cold-water set | Restores the existing part without adding a seam | Overheating softens nearby detail or creates a new warp |
| Clean plastic break with broad faces | Plastic cement | Solvent welds the polystyrene faces | It will not bond resin or metal; excess can melt detail |
| Resin, metal, or mixed-material break | Super glue | Adheres unlike and non-polystyrene materials | Residue, paint, or oily resin causes a weak bond |
| Heavy or repeatedly handled joint | Pin plus the compatible adhesive | Metal reinforcement carries the load | Misaligned or over-deep drilling can split the part |
| Large gap in a metal or resin joint | Pin, adhesive, then two-part epoxy or modelling putty | Combines internal strength with a shaped external fill | Filler alone is not a substitute for a structural pin |
Reversibility and cleanup also matter. Super glue can usually be released more readily than a solvent-welded plastic joint, but debonding a painted model still risks the finish. Glue-only repairs need less equipment; pinning takes a drill, rod, and alignment time but is the safer choice when leverage is high.
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Troubleshoot a repair that failed
The joint pops apart after curing
Check whether the adhesive matched the material and whether paint, mould release, dust, or old glue remained on the faces. Clean back to sound material, dry-fit again, and re-glue. If the part is heavy or the contact area is narrow, stop repeating glue-only repairs and pin it.
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Old adhesive may be holding one face high. Remove raised residue, identify any casting nub or bent pin, and test the pose without glue. For a pinned joint, inspect the hole angles; a rod that enters both sides but forces a twist needs one hole corrected before the adhesive is reapplied.
The part warped while being heated
Let it cool completely before judging the shape. If it is still wrong, warm only the affected section again at a lower setting or for a shorter interval. Support adjacent details and use cold water to lock each successful adjustment.
The seam remains visible
Do not add paint directly over a ridge or depression. Remove loose material, apply a thin layer of modelling putty, cure it, and smooth it. Prime the repair; primer reveals scratches and pinholes that are hard to see on bare filler.
White frosting appears around super glue
Frosting is a surface deposit, not evidence that the joint is strong. Let the glue cure, brush away loose residue, and carefully sand or repaint the affected area. Reduce excess glue and improve ventilation on future repairs, while keeping uncured adhesive away from glossy painted surfaces.
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Prevent breaks during handling and transport
- Support the miniature by its base, not by a weapon, banner, antenna, or other projecting detail.
- Use a transport insert that leaves clearance around thin parts and prevents the model from rocking.
- Carry especially long or heavy accessories close to their strongest attachment point when moving the model between storage and the table.
- Inspect repaired joints before a game. A hairline movement is easier to reinforce at home than after the part is lost.
- Keep resin and metal models away from unprotected heat sources; ordinary heat can gradually change a carefully corrected shape.
Safety checklist
- Wear eye protection when drilling, cutting, or filing.
- Use a dust mask when sanding resin or metal, and clean the work surface afterward.
- Keep hot water, a hair dryer, and softened parts away from fingers and flammable materials.
- Never use a naked flame on resin.
- Ventilate the workspace when using solvent cement, super glue, or epoxy, and follow each product’s label.
- Keep blades and drill bits pointed away from your hands; secure the miniature or work on a stable cutting surface.
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