Clean hiking boots when they are muddy or gritty, let them air-dry slowly away from heat, and renew water repellency when water stops beading and repeatedly soaks into the outer material. Use products made for your boot’s leather or fabric, and follow the boot maker’s care directions—especially for boots with a waterproof membrane.
How often should you clean or waterproof hiking boots?
Brush off mud and grit after a dirty outing, or clean the boots the following day. Dirt and grit can wear on leather and fabric as the boots flex; drying mud can also draw moisture from leather.
Many new hiking boots have factory-applied durable water repellent, so they usually do not need immediate reproofing. After cleaning, watch what water does: if it beads on the outer material, routine cleaning may be enough. If it repeatedly soaks in, renew the water repellency with a treatment compatible with the boot’s materials. There is no universal reapplication schedule; Nikwax advises reapplying as necessary or after severe conditions.
How to clean hiking boots
- Remove laces and insoles. Set the insoles aside to dry separately.
- Brush away loose dirt. Use a soft brush on the uppers. Clean the outsole and remove trapped pebbles to help preserve traction and avoid carrying invasive material between hiking areas.
- Wash when needed. Rinse with running water and use a footwear cleaner suitable for the boot’s materials. REI also lists saddle soap or a mild dish-soap solution as options, but cautions against bar soaps and detergents that may contain additives harmful to leather or membranes. Rinse thoroughly.
- Air-dry the boots. Keep them at normal room temperature in a low-humidity place. A fan or loosely packed newspaper can help; replace the newspaper when it becomes damp.
Do not put hiking boots in a washing machine. REI’s official “How to Clean Hiking Boots” guidance states: “Do not use a heat source.” Avoid fireplaces, campfires, wood stoves, radiators, and heaters: direct heat can weaken adhesives and age leather.
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How to waterproof hiking boots
Waterproofing means renewing the water-repellent finish on the boot’s outer materials; it does not repair a damaged waterproof membrane. First clean the boots, then check the care label and the treatment instructions. Some treatments are applied to damp boots, while others may specify a different method.
- Identify the materials and construction. Check whether the upper is smooth full-grain leather, suede or nubuck, fabric, or a combination, and look for the boot maker’s membrane-care instructions.
- Choose a compatible treatment. Use a product labeled for the boot’s materials and construction. For example, Nikwax describes its Fabric & Leather Proof as suitable for fabric, leather, and combination footwear; that is one product example, not a recommendation for every boot.
- Apply it exactly as directed. Some products call for clean, damp boots. REI says leather should be wet through its thickness before applying its recommended treatment; simply running water over the surface may not be enough. Follow the chosen product’s directions rather than assuming all treatments use the same method.
- Dry slowly. Air-dry at room temperature, away from direct heat, before storing the boots.
Guidance differs on waterproof/breathable membrane boots. REI says membrane areas should be cleaned and do not need treatment; older Nikwax Q&A content recommends waterproofing even with a membrane. Prioritize the boot maker’s care label. An exterior leather or fabric panel may have separate care needs, but do not assume a water-repellent treatment restores a damaged membrane.
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Choose care products by boot material
| Boot material or feature | Care approach | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Full-grain leather | Use a compatible cleaner. If smooth leather looks dry or cracked, apply a suitable conditioner sparingly; renew water repellency when water repeatedly soaks into the surface. | Over-conditioning can soften the boot and reduce support. REI warns that mink oil and similar industrial boot oils can over-soften the dry-tanned leather used in hiking footwear. |
| Suede or nubuck | Clean with products suitable for rough leather and use a compatible water-repellent treatment when needed. | Avoid smooth-leather conditioning products by default. |
| Fabric and leather combination | Choose products labeled for both materials and follow their application directions. Nikwax lists Fabric & Leather Proof for this category. | Do not assume a product made for one material suits the whole boot. |
| Waterproof/breathable membrane | Clean membrane areas and check the boot maker’s care directions before treating surrounding materials. | REI says membrane areas do not need treatment; manufacturer guidance can differ. A surface treatment does not repair a damaged membrane. |
If future resoling matters, avoid wax unless the boot maker or cobbler confirms it is appropriate: REI cautions that wax residue can prevent new sole adhesive from bonding.
Quick Recap
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Dry, store, and repair boots carefully
- Remove insoles and let them dry separately.
- Dry boots in a dry, ventilated place at normal room temperature. Avoid damp or hot storage such as an attic, garage, or car trunk.
- Do not use household glue as a lasting fix for serious damage. A gouge through leather warrants a professional cobbler; glue is only a temporary patch for superficial damage and may degrade leather.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
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