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Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →To build the LED shield in Adafruit’s guide, make its Guardian Shield+ prop: a custom 3D-printed, illuminated shield inspired by The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild. The design combines a Feather M0 controller, a one-meter NeoPixel strip for the blades, and LEDs for the gems. It is a substantial maker project—not a generic plug-in Arduino shield—and requires electronics assembly plus custom printing.
What the finished shield is
Adafruit’s project guide describes a shield measuring 700 millimeters wide by 600 millimeters tall. Its body is printed in clear translucent PLA, while blue translucent UV-fluorescent PLA forms the blades. Gray PLA is used for the rear attachment, handles, and masks that block unwanted light. The handle articulates, and the design is rechargeable. These are the guide’s project specifications, not independently measured dimensions or performance results. See the Guardian Shield+ overview.
The lighting is divided by location: a one-meter mini Skinny NeoPixel Strip 144 illuminates the blades; a NeoPixel Jewel lights the center gem; and one breadboard-friendly NeoPixel lights a side gem. The Feather M0 runs the lighting. Adafruit credits the project to Ruiz Brothers and classifies it as intermediate.
Parts and skills to plan for
The guide’s core parts list includes an Adafruit Feather M0, NeoPixel Jewel, one-meter mini Skinny NeoPixel Strip 144, mini panel-mount DPDT toggle switch, 6600mAh battery, silicone wires, and a 3D printer. Assembly also calls for M2.5x6mm, M3x12mm, and M5x9mm fasteners. Treat these as the documented build, not a guarantee that every part remains available or a recommendation of an unverified substitute.
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- Printing: The shield relies on several custom translucent parts, so access to an FDM printer and a suitable filament matters as much as the LEDs.
- Assembly: You will route the lighting through the printed center structure, secure the battery with zip ties or tape, and assemble the blades and handle.
How the circuit is wired
In Adafruit’s circuit diagram, the blade strip’s data input connects to Feather pin 6; the Jewel’s data input connects to pin 5. Both lighting parts connect to BAT for power and GND for ground. The guide uses holes in the Feather’s prototyping area to bridge BAT-connected points for additional power connections. Follow the diagram rather than assuming another controller has the same pin assignments. Review Adafruit’s circuit diagram.
The guide describes the LiPo battery’s male JST-PH2 connector plugging into the Feather’s female JST-PH2 connector. It wires the DPDT switch to BAT, a prototyping-area pin, EN, and GND as shown in the diagram. In the guide’s arrangement, switching on powers the board and NeoPixels; switching off allows the battery to charge through the Feather’s microUSB port when connected to a 5V supply. Check the specifications and polarity for the exact board and battery you choose; connector fit alone does not establish electrical compatibility.
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Set up the controller before final assembly
Adafruit recommends preparing the Feather M0 for the Arduino IDE, installing the required drivers, then compiling and uploading a Blink example before building the shield around it. This checks the board-and-computer setup while it is still easy to reach. The guide provides code that builders can upload without writing the lighting program themselves. Follow its current setup and code instructions, since software and driver procedures may change over time. Open the Feather and code instructions.
Print the custom shield parts
The project page provides STL files for printing and CAD source; the model was designed in Autodesk Fusion 360. Adafruit’s listed slicing settings are a starting point for its PLA build, not universal settings for every printer or filament.
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| Setting | Adafruit guide value |
|---|---|
| Extruder temperature | 230°C |
| Heated bed | None; 65°C if using a heated bed |
| Extrusion multiplier | 100% |
| Nozzle | 0.6mm |
| Extrusion width | 0.72mm |
| Layer height | 0.4mm |
| Infill | 20% |
| Skirt or brim | Four to six outlines |
| Raft and supports | None |
If printing in a material other than PLA, the guide advises adjusting the slicer settings. Use your printer and filament maker’s recommendations to determine suitable temperatures and bed conditions. Find the print settings and files.
Assemble and check the lighting
- Prepare the strip: Trim its connector as directed, then strip and tin the power, ground, and data wires. Observe the strip’s orientation marks so the data line enters at the correct end.
- Wire the electronics: Connect the strip and Jewel to the Feather pins and power points shown in the circuit diagram. Keep cut strip-end wires from touching each other; a short can damage components.
- Fit the lights: Route the strip and gem LEDs through the printed center structure, following the assembly guide’s placement and orientation.
- Secure the battery: Mount it with zip ties or tape as shown, keeping its connector and wiring positioned safely within the rear assembly.
- Finish the body: Assemble the shield blades, handle, rear attachment, and light-blocking masks according to the project guide.
Use the illustrated assembly steps alongside the circuit diagram; the instructions show the part routing and fasteners in context.
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Choosing compatible substitutions
Adafruit’s guide documents one specific combination rather than comparing alternatives. If you need to substitute a component, check the relevant constraints before buying or wiring it:
- Controller: Confirm it can run the supplied code or adapt the code and wiring for its capabilities. The documented strip and Jewel data pins are Feather pins 6 and 5.
- LEDs: Match the strip’s one-meter length and 144 LEDs per meter if you want to follow the documented blade layout, and check its power requirements against the controller and battery arrangement.
- Battery: Check voltage, polarity, JST-PH2 connector compatibility, capacity, physical fit, and charging requirements. The project’s stated capacity is 6600mAh; the guide does not provide an independently tested runtime.
- Printer and filament: Confirm the printer can accommodate the custom parts and that the chosen translucent material suits the appearance and settings you intend to use.
The guide dates to 2017, with the overview page indicating a March 8, 2024 edit. Verify current component availability and the applicable board, battery, driver, and software instructions before starting.
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