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How to thicken avgolemono without curdling the eggs
- Whisk the eggs and lemon. Follow the proportions in your recipe; some recipes use whole eggs, while others specify yolks.
- Temper gradually. Slowly whisk a small amount of hot broth into the egg-lemon mixture, whisking continuously as you pour. This brings the eggs closer to the soup’s temperature without exposing them to a sudden blast of heat. The Milk Street recipe republished by the Associated Press uses about 1 cup of hot rice-broth mixture for tempering.
- Return the mixture to the pot slowly. Whisk continuously as you pour the warmed egg mixture into the soup so it disperses evenly.
- Finish gently. If needed, warm the soup over low heat, stirring, until it is hot and lightly thickened. Do not let it boil or simmer after adding the egg mixture.
These steps follow the tempering guidance in Smithsonian Associates’ Greek egg-lemon soup recipe, the Milk Street recipe republished by the Associated Press, and Greek chef Argiro Barbarigou’s avgolemono guidance.
Why avgolemono curdles
Eggs can coagulate into curds when they heat too quickly. Tempering gradually reduces the temperature shock, and keeping the finished soup below a simmer limits further cooking after the eggs are added. The egg-lemon mixture is not just a flavoring: it is the classic liaison that thickens and enriches the broth.
How much egg and lemon to use
There is no universal ratio established by these recipes, so use the quantities in the recipe you are following rather than treating one formula as a rule. For example, the Milk Street recipe republished by the Associated Press on January 6, 2025, uses 3 large eggs and 3 tablespoons of lemon juice with 1 quart of chicken broth, 2 cups of water, and ¾ cup of rice. Those amounts belong to that specific recipe.
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Can rice or cornstarch make avgolemono thicker?
Rice in soup versions
Rice appears in the Smithsonian Associates and Milk Street/AP soup recipes, but it is not established as essential to every avgolemono preparation. Treat it as an ingredient in those soup versions, not as a required thickener across all versions.
A cornstarch-supported variation
The Los Angeles Times recipe uses a cornstarch slurry as an additional way to thicken the broth before adding tempered egg yolks. It is a recipe-specific variation, not the defining avgolemono technique. In that method, whisk cornstarch and water into a slurry, stir it into hot broth off the heat, bring the broth down to a gentle simmer, then temper the yolks with hot broth and whisk them into the soup.
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| Method | Role | When it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Tempered egg-lemon mixture | Provides the characteristic flavor and classic thickening. | The core method; requires gradual whisking and gentle heat. |
| Cornstarch slurry before egg yolks | Thickens the broth separately before the egg mixture is added. | An optional, recipe-specific approach when following the Los Angeles Times variation. |
What if the soup has already curdled?
The cited recipes and guidance explain how to prevent curdling but do not establish a dependable way to restore already-curdled avgolemono. Avoid assuming that blending, straining, adding more egg, or adding starch will bring back the original texture. For the next batch, temper the eggs gradually and keep the soup below a simmer after they go in.
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