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Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problemsFix Now →Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minuteDriver Scan →Yes—a 3D-printed electric guitar can be playable. The Hackstercaster is Jeremy Cook’s modified version of Prusa Research’s Prusacaster: it uses a segmented printed body with conventional T-style guitar hardware, rather than printing the neck and every component. Cook says the updated files retain the original segment dimensions, so Hackstercaster and Prusacaster body sections can be mixed. The key build decisions are hardware fit, a strong center section, and whether to add optional LEDs.
What changes from the Prusacaster to the Hackstercaster?
The Hackstercaster is an adaptation, not a wholly separate guitar design. Cook’s updated STL files add structural revisions, wiring routes, accessory space, and the option of internal LED lighting while retaining the original Prusacaster segment dimensions, according to the project author. That dimensional compatibility lets builders combine sections from the two designs, but it does not remove the need to check that a particular hardware set fits the files being printed.
Both projects use a printed, segmented body and conventional guitar hardware. The Prusacaster project describes a Harley Benton T-Style kit as its hardware reference; the Hackstercaster points builders to a kit manual. The printed body is only part of the instrument.
What parts and equipment do you need?
Conventional guitar hardware
Plan on a neck and the other guitar parts required by the chosen T-style hardware setup; the print files do not make this an all-printed instrument. The Prusacaster project references a Harley Benton T-Style electric guitar kit, but neither project establishes that every T-style kit will fit every file revision. Check the exact kit manual and the dimensions or notes for the STL files before buying. Substitutions may take extra time or money to fit.
The Tool Desk
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Printer and filament
You need a printer capable of producing the segmented parts and a stable printing surface. The Hackstercaster author reports using a Prusa CORE One successfully, but it is an example, not a requirement; the available sources do not establish a universally suitable printer or minimum build volume. The individual segments mean the whole body need not be printed as one piece.
Material choice should follow the part’s job. In the original Prusacaster build, Prusa used PLA for the structural middle section and PETG for other segments, and emphasizes stiffness in the load-bearing area. That is a documented choice for that build, not a universal material rule for every printer or revision. For Hackstercaster light diffusers, Cook used translucent PETG rather than optically clear PETG.
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Check the files and print settings
The Hackstercaster page instructs builders to print one of each listed STL. It identifies middle_piece-HR1 as the most critical part, because the center section bears substantial mechanical load. Cook recommends seven outer layers and 25% infill for it, following the original Prusacaster guidance. For other pieces, the documented settings are three outer layers and 15% or 25% infill.
- Use supports where the model requires them, and keep the printer on a solid surface.
- For the structural part, Cook recommends a 0.25 mm setting rather than the printer’s default speed setting.
- Confirm the selected files, printer capabilities, and hardware dimensions before committing to a full print.
How to build and set up the guitar
- Choose compatible files and hardware. Select the Prusacaster or Hackstercaster files—or a deliberate mix—and compare the exact files with the hardware kit manual. Do this before purchasing parts or printing the body.
- Print the body segments. Print one of each listed STL. Give
middle_piece-HR1the recommended seven outer layers and 25% infill; use three outer layers and 15% or 25% infill for the other pieces as described by Cook. Add supports where needed and use a solid printer surface. - Assemble the printed sections with the conventional guitar parts. Follow the selected kit’s manual for its hardware and assembly. The project materials do not establish a single fit guarantee across substitute kits, so resolve mismatches against the exact parts and files in use.
- String with light-gauge strings and arrange a setup. Prusa specifically discusses 9-gauge strings, and Cook recommends light-gauge strings to reduce stress on the printed body. A professional guitar setup may improve the instrument’s playability.
Will a 3D-printed guitar hold string tension?
The center section is the critical structural area: it must be stiff enough to handle string tension. Prusa highlights stiffness and low-tension strings, and Cook gives specific print guidance for the center section. However, Cook explicitly says, “The new design has not been tested for creep over the long term.” The available project information therefore does not establish long-term stability or durability for the revised Hackstercaster design.
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Light-gauge strings help limit stress; Prusa’s discussion specifically uses 9-gauge strings. That is a project recommendation, not proof that every material, print setting, or file revision will behave identically.
How do the optional Hackstercaster lights work?
Lighting is an optional electronics project, not a requirement for a playable guitar. Cook’s documented setup uses an Arduino Pro Nano running the standard NeoPixel strandtest routine, modified for nine LEDs, and a WS2812B LED strip connected with jumper wires. The listed parts also include a 9V battery and an SPDT toggle switch; a custom solder-helper PCB is optional.
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The project mentions possible additions such as an accelerometer or microphone as future ideas, not as tested build instructions. Builders should treat those as separate electronics work rather than part of the documented lighting setup.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What should you expect from the finished instrument?
Both projects describe a playable electric guitar, but neither provides controlled sound measurements. Cook writes, “It will sound a bit different than a solid-body electric guitar.” A printed segmented body should not be assumed to sound identical to a conventional solid-body instrument, and the sources do not quantify the difference. Cook also suggests that professional setup may improve the result.
Quick Recap
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- it is easy to build your own electric guitar.We have included instructions with the product to better assist you with this project. If your instructions is lost, please let us know and we will send it to you in PDF format.
- 🎸 Great Learning & Customization Project Perfect for learning guitar assembly, modification, and setup. You can paint, stain, or personalize the body to create a unique instrument tailored to your style.
Prusa’s original article title used “<$150” as historical price framing. It is not a current build-cost estimate: kit and material prices may have changed, and the sources do not establish a present-day total.
Sources
- Jeremy Cook, 3D-Printed Guitar [Prusacaster ==> Hackstercaster].
- Prusa Research, The Prusacaster – How to Design and 3D Print an Electric Guitar that plays well.
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.
