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You can make a simple directional Wi-Fi Yagi antenna by assembling one driven element, a reflector behind it, and directors in front, all aligned on a support. The parts must be sized and spaced for the intended frequency: there is no single set of cut lengths that works for every Yagi. This guide explains the layout and a practical way to build from a matching template, without promising a range increase that has not been measured on your equipment.

How a Wi-Fi Yagi antenna works

A Yagi-Uda antenna uses one element connected to the radio feed and several unpowered elements that shape its radiation pattern. In the usual layout, the reflector sits behind the driven element; directors extend forward. Aim the director end toward the Wi-Fi device or area you want to connect to. The antenna is directional, so orientation matters.

Yagi performance depends on the complete geometry, including element lengths and spacing, conductor diameter, number of elements, boom, and reflector arrangement. The National Bureau of Standards discusses these design variables in its 1992 Yagi Antenna Design report, whose measurements were conducted at 400 MHz—not at Wi-Fi frequencies. Its measured results therefore should not be treated as performance data for a 2.4 GHz home build.

Choose one 2.4 GHz design and follow it as a set

For a straightforward DIY approach, use a template-based project such as bysy/wifi-yagi. Its instructions describe joining a printed template, forming an 18 AWG copper-wire square-loop driven element with a small feed gap facing the reflector, and soldering the feed and ground to the two ends. The reflector and directors are then cut and attached to a support. Use the template’s own dimensions and placement; the project README does not provide a readable dimension table in its text, so do not infer cut lengths from another antenna design.

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A separate, fully specified geometry illustrates why mixing plans is risky. COMSOL’s Wi-Fi Booster Yagi–Uda model is centered at 2.45 GHz and uses a straight dipole driven element. Its dimensions are simulation parameters for that design, not universal DIY measurements:

Part or parameter COMSOL model value
Wavelength at the model frequency 0.12236 m
Dipole arm length 0.026308 m
Reflector length 0.058735 m
Reflector spacing 0.024473 m
Director length 0.042827 m
Director spacing 0.024473 m

That model’s straight-dipole geometry is not the square-loop construction in the GitHub template. Do not combine the dimensions from one with the element shape and feed instructions from the other as though the result were a tested design.

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Materials and compatibility checks

  • Conductor: The GitHub project names 18 AWG copper wire. Follow the selected template for quantity, length, and any additional materials.
  • Support or boom: Use the support specified by the chosen plan and keep elements in their intended positions and alignment. Material and placement can affect antenna behavior.
  • Feed cable and connector: Identify the antenna connector on your router or Wi-Fi adapter before buying a pigtail. The cited designs do not establish one connector type for all equipment.
  • Band: The examples here concern 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. They do not establish 5 GHz coverage or compatibility with a particular router or adapter.
  • Tools: The loop-template instructions call for forming and soldering the wire. An analyzer is optional for advanced impedance or S-parameter characterization, not a basic requirement for assembling the antenna.

Build the template-based antenna

  1. Confirm the radio and feed connection. Check whether your router or adapter supports an external antenna and identify its connector. Make sure the selected antenna feed can connect before building around a cable or pigtail.
  2. Print and join the chosen template. Use the GitHub project’s template instructions to assemble it at the intended scale. Keep the pattern as the reference for element positions; do not substitute dimensions from the COMSOL model.
  3. Form the driven loop. Bend 18 AWG copper wire into the square-loop shape shown in the template, preserving the small feed gap on the side facing the reflector.
  4. Attach the feed conductors. Solder the feed and ground to the two ends of the driven element as the project’s instructions specify. Avoid bridging the gap with solder.
  5. Cut and mount the passive elements. Make the reflector and directors to the template’s dimensions, then attach them to the support in the marked positions. Keep the reflector behind the driven element and directors extending toward the front.
  6. Inspect before connecting. Check that the elements are straight, aligned, securely attached, and not touching where the feed gap must remain open. Connect only with the cable and connector appropriate to your device.
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Aim and evaluate it without assuming a range gain

Place the antenna so the directors point along the desired link, then adjust its orientation while observing the connection on the actual Wi-Fi equipment. The cited DIY page does not report measured gain, and the COMSOL figures are simulation outputs rather than verified results for a home-built antenna. COMSOL reports 10 dBi maximum modeled gain, 14 dB modeled front-to-back ratio, and a 58° E-plane half-power beamwidth for its particular 2.45 GHz model. These values are not a prediction of your build’s range or performance.

For comparisons between plans, check target frequency, element shape and dimensions, spacing, conductor diameter, support material and layout, and feed or matching arrangement. Also distinguish simulated results from measurements on a physical antenna. The available NBS measurements are at 400 MHz, while COMSOL’s cited Wi-Fi figures are modeled, so neither supplies a measured result for this template-built antenna.

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These sources do not establish a universal cut list, a connector for an unspecified Wi-Fi device, or a real-world range improvement. They also do not determine the transmit-power rules that apply in every jurisdiction; check the requirements for your location and equipment before transmitting.

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