There is no single set of camera settings that is best for every photo. Start by choosing an aperture for the depth of field you want, a shutter speed for how you want motion to look, and an ISO that gives you enough light without adding more noise than you can accept. Metering can guide exposure, but you still need to check whether the result matches your intent.
How exposure works
Exposure is the amount of light recorded in an image. Three settings work together to control it: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. As Nikon educator Reed Hoffmann puts it, “The key thing to remember is that the three elements—aperture, shutter speed and ISO—are always linked.” A change to one can be balanced by changing another, but the visual result may change too.
A stop is a standard step in exposure: changing a setting by one stop doubles or halves the light admitted or the sensitivity required. The exact direction depends on which setting you adjust. For example, a faster shutter lets in light for less time; opening the aperture or raising ISO can help compensate.
Choose the setting that controls the effect you care about
| Setting | What it controls | Practical effect |
|---|---|---|
| Aperture | Lens opening and depth of field | A lower f-number means a wider opening, more light, and usually a shallower in-focus zone. A higher f-number means a smaller opening, less light, and usually more of the scene in focus. |
| Shutter speed | How long the sensor is exposed to light | A faster speed is more likely to freeze movement. A slower speed can show motion blur and may make camera shake more visible. |
| ISO | Sensor sensitivity setting | A lower ISO needs more light. Raising ISO can help in dim conditions or allow a faster shutter, but often makes image noise more visible. |
Aperture: background blur or more depth of field
Use a wider aperture (a lower f-number) when you want a softer, blurrier background or need more light. Use a narrower aperture (a higher f-number) when you want more of the scene to appear in focus, as in many landscapes. The amount of background blur also depends on factors such as lens and shooting distance, so aperture alone does not guarantee a particular look.
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Shutter speed: freeze movement or show it
Choose a faster shutter when movement should look sharp, and a slower one when you want motion blur or need to gather more light. The speed required depends on how quickly the subject moves and how much blur you want. Nikon gives illustrative action examples of about 1/250 second for a person riding a bicycle and more than 1/1000 second for helicopter blades; these are starting examples, not universal settings.
ISO: trade light for noise
Keep ISO low when the scene is bright enough and image noise matters. Raise it when the available light would otherwise force an unusably slow shutter or an aperture you do not want. How much noise is visible varies by camera and image conditions, so review a test frame at the size you plan to use.
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Choose a camera mode for the decision you want to make
| Mode or approach | You control | Useful when | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aperture Priority (often A or Av) | Aperture | You want to choose depth of field, such as for portraits or landscapes. | The camera chooses shutter speed; check that it is fast enough for your subject and camera handling. |
| Shutter Priority (often S or Tv) | Shutter speed | You need to manage movement, such as action or deliberate blur. | The camera chooses aperture; the chosen value may limit the exposure in very bright or dim light. |
| Manual exposure | Aperture and shutter speed, and usually ISO | You want direct control over the exposure settings. | Changing light may require you to adjust settings yourself. Some cameras offer Auto ISO in Manual mode; behavior varies. |
Auto ISO can adjust sensitivity as light changes, if your camera offers it. The available options and limits are camera-specific. For a beginner photographing changing scenes, a practical starting setup is Matrix or evaluative metering, Auto ISO if desired, and a habit of reviewing the exposure rather than assuming the camera chose your preferred brightness.
Use metering as a starting estimate
Metering is the camera’s way of estimating exposure from the scene. Metering names and behavior differ among camera brands and models. In an older COOLPIX P1/P2 manual, Nikon describes Matrix metering as considering multiple parts of the frame, center-weighted as emphasizing the center while retaining background information, and spot as measuring a small target area. These descriptions explain the concepts, but do not guarantee identical operation on a current camera.
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- Matrix or evaluative: a useful general-purpose starting point. Nikon recommends Matrix metering in its beginner portrait advice.
- Center-weighted: gives more importance to the center of the composition, which can help when the subject is centered.
- Spot: measures a small area, useful when you want the exposure estimate to prioritize a specific subject region.
A meter can be fooled by scenes dominated by very bright or very dark tones, or its recommendation may simply differ from the brightness you intend. When available, use exposure compensation to bias the camera’s automatic exposure, or AE lock to hold a reading while recomposing. Nikon’s portrait guidance describes metering a centered subject and locking exposure before recomposing; whether a half-press locks exposure depends on the camera and its configuration. Check your manual for the exact controls, then review the image.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Starting points for common situations
Portraits
For a portrait, choose an aperture for the background blur and depth of field you want, then make sure the shutter speed is suitable for the person’s movement and your camera handling. Nikon’s portrait guide gives one example: ISO 400, f/5.6, Aperture Priority, and at least 1/100 second, raising ISO to 800 if available light is insufficient. Treat those values as that guide’s example, not a rule for every lens, camera, subject, or lighting setup.
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Sports, wildlife, and other action
Use Shutter Priority or set the shutter manually when freezing movement is the priority. Start with a faster speed and raise ISO if the camera cannot maintain a suitable exposure. The right speed depends on subject movement and the look you want; Nikon’s bicycle and helicopter figures above illustrate how widely the requirement can vary.
Landscapes and scenes with greater depth
Try Aperture Priority and select a narrower aperture when you want more of the scene to appear in focus. Check the shutter speed the camera selects. If it becomes slow enough to risk blur, consider raising ISO or stabilizing the camera; the best trade-off depends on the scene and equipment.
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Night scenes and intentional motion blur
A slower shutter can record more light or create motion trails. Nikon recommends a tripod for long night exposures. A tripod is useful when the exposure is long enough for hand movement to blur the image, but it is not a prerequisite for learning exposure or for every night photograph.
Quick Recap
A simple workflow for a first shot
- Decide whether depth of field or motion is the main creative priority.
- Select Aperture Priority for depth of field or Shutter Priority for motion; use Manual when you want direct control over both.
- Choose an aperture or shutter speed to achieve that effect.
- Set ISO low if the light allows, or use Auto ISO or a higher value if needed to keep the selected aperture or shutter speed.
- Choose a general-purpose metering mode such as Matrix/evaluative if available, then frame and take a test photo.
- Review brightness and sharpness. Adjust exposure compensation, settings, or metering if the result does not match your intent; consult your camera manual for model-specific controls.
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