To make a custom Pip-Boy enclosure, first choose whether you’re building a costume prop, a phone holder, or a functional wearable computer. Then measure the actual screen, electronics, battery, controls, connectors, and wearer’s arm before adapting the CAD. Print a small test for the screen opening and fastener holes before committing to the full shell: popular Pip-Boy models use different dimensions and assembly hardware, and scaling a design can throw off screw fit.
Choose the kind of Pip-Boy you want to build
The right enclosure depends on what it needs to hold. A decorative shell can prioritize appearance and arm fit; a phone holder needs to match one specific phone; a wearable computer must be designed around its exact components and their access points.
| Build path | Compute and display | Customization and fit | Main trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Prop or phone shell | No computer required; a phone may provide the display. | Choose a printable model and verify phone and arm fit. | Less electronics work, but the interior may not fit a computer. |
| Raspberry Pi 3000 | The Adafruit guide uses a Raspberry Pi Model B+ and 3.5-inch PiTFT. | Its open CAD is designed around particular components and includes cutouts for most Pi I/O ports. | A detailed functional example with more parts and integration work. |
| Pip-Boy 2040 | A compact RP2040-based wearable project. | A three-part case with specified fasteners and strap options. | A smaller build with design-specific print and assembly requirements. |
| Custom computer enclosure | Your choice of hardware. | Design openings and internal volumes around the exact parts. | Most flexible, but requires the most CAD and fit testing. |
For a ready-to-adapt phone shell, Ytec’s classic Pip-Boy 3000 lists internal dimensions of 139 × 75 × 16 mm. Its creator describes it as a smartphone holder, not a plug-and-play Raspberry Pi enclosure; fitting a computer requires changes. The Ytec Mark IV page offers 100%, 108%, and 115% variants, but calls its “accurate” edition unfinished and warns that arbitrary scaling can make tapped screw holes too large. See the Ytec classic Pip-Boy 3000 model and the Ytec Pip-Boy 3000 Mark IV page.
Measure the hardware and wearer before editing CAD
For a functional build, pick and measure the electronics first. The enclosure’s screen opening, mounting points, port cutouts, battery volume, and control placement all depend on the exact parts. The Adafruit Raspberry Pi Pipboy 3000 is a useful example of a component-specific design: its guide combines a Pi Model B+, a 3.5-inch PiTFT, a rechargeable 2200 mAh battery, audio and power parts, LED and rotary controls, and a printed case. The guide says the case has cutouts for most Pi I/O ports so peripherals can be added. That fit should not be assumed for a different Pi, display, or connector layout. Read the Adafruit Raspberry Pi Pipboy 3000 guide alongside its 3D-printing instructions and files.
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- Screen: Measure the visible area, full module, mounting holes, and the space needed to install or remove it.
- Board and battery: Measure their full outlines and heights, including plugs and wiring, and leave room to open the case for service.
- Controls and ports: Place each switch, dial, and connector where it can be reached without colliding with the case or your arm.
- Arm and strap: Measure over the sleeve you intend to wear, and locate the strap so the shell stays secure without pressing uncomfortably.
Use calipers where possible and add practical clearance for wiring, connectors, print variation, and assembly. When adapting a model, modify the source CAD rather than globally scaling it if the design relies on fixed-size holes or mating surfaces. Check that ports remain accessible and that the enclosure can be opened without damaging wires.
Choose a model and check its files and license
Use a phone-sized model for a phone build, not as evidence that a computer will fit inside. Ytec lists 500 g of PLA or ABS for its classic design, along with glue, electronics of choice, screws, paint, magnets, and Velcro straps; those materials and quantities apply to that project, not every Pip-Boy print. Its page states a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike license. The Adafruit guides provide CAD in several formats and describe the files as open source; check the current downloadable files for their exact license before remixing or redistributing them.
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For a functional build, the older Adafruit Pi 3000 guide is based on a Pi Model B+ and PiTFT. Check dimensions and software support rather than assuming its files fit current hardware. The Raspberry Pi Foundation’s March 24, 2020 feature describes a separate Pi Zero W wearable with a GPIO-connected display and custom Python interface, and calls that project “not what we’d call a beginner’s project.” It is evidence of a more demanding functional path, not an enclosure tutorial: Raspberry Pi Foundation’s project feature.
Adapt the enclosure and test the fit
- Open the source model in CAD. Start with the closest model to your build and keep the original files unchanged so you can revert if a modification causes problems.
- Set the screen opening and mounts. Align the display with the front bezel and verify the module can be installed and removed. Check standoffs and screw holes against the actual hardware.
- Add clearance and access. Make room for cables, connectors, battery, controls, and any peripherals. Ensure ports are reachable and the case can be reopened for repair.
- Check the wrist attachment. Plan the strap location around the wearer’s arm and intended sleeve, and make the closure adjustable.
- Print a small fit sample. Test the bezel opening, standoffs, or fastener holes before printing large parts. A small test can reveal a mismatch without wasting a full enclosure.
Scaling is a blunt workaround: it changes the screen opening and internal volume, but also changes hole diameters and the fit of mating parts. The Mark IV’s 100%, 108%, and 115% versions are model-specific options, not general sizing recommendations.
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Slice and print for the chosen design
Settings belong to particular files and printers; they are not universal Pip-Boy settings. Adafruit’s Pip-Boy 2040 guide, last edited April 18, 2025, specifies three model files printed at 0.2 mm layer height and 18% infill. Treat those as starting settings for that case, then inspect the slicer preview and adjust for your printer, material, and strength needs. The guide is at Adafruit’s Pip-Boy 2040 case instructions.
For the separate Raspberry Pi 3000 design, Adafruit recommends PLA to reduce warping and splitting and identifies the base-main and rotary-case parts as needing support. The base-main needs support only in localized areas, so inspect the preview for overhangs and trapped support material rather than adding supports indiscriminately. The design’s print instructions list flat pliers and flush diagonal snips for cleanup.
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Assemble with the hardware for that model
Fasteners are not interchangeable across these designs. Follow the instructions for the model you printed; do not combine one build’s screw list with another’s.
Adafruit Raspberry Pi Pipboy 3000
Tap the printed standoffs with a #4-40 tap or machine screw only about halfway through. The armband and base-main use magnet pockets; check pocket fit and magnet polarity before gluing. Refer to the Pi 3000 printing and assembly instructions.
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Adafruit Pip-Boy 2040
This case uses four M4 × 0.7 brass heat-set inserts and M4 × 30 mm socket-head screws to join its case sections, plus M2.5 × 10 mm screws and nuts for the display and board assembly. Sink the inserts carefully, align the USB-C cutout, and choose a nylon watch strap or hook-and-loop fastening. These specifications are for the 2040 case, not the Pi 3000. See its case guide.
Finish the shell and check it before wearing
Clean away supports, strings, and rough edges before fitting electronics. If you plan to paint or glue parts, first confirm the enclosure opens, connectors work, and the strap is secure. Ytec lists paint, glue, magnets, and Velcro for its classic model; Adafruit’s 2040 design supports a nylon strap or hook-and-loop closure. Wear-test the assembled case over the actual sleeve and check for pressure points and movement before wearing it for a long period. These are practical fit checks, not a published or certified safety specification.
Make a bill of materials for the exact files you use, including print material, fasteners, inserts, magnets, and strap. Do not assume the stated 500 g of PLA or ABS for Ytec’s classic model, or another project’s hardware list, applies to your custom enclosure.
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