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If the picture shows on the TV but the speakers stay silent, check mute and volume on both devices first. A silent picture does not by itself prove an audio codec mismatch. Most silent mirroring problems come down to a muted or low volume, the wrong sound output, a protocol or model limit, weak wireless conditions, content protection, or the audio route through a receiver or soundbar. Work through those in order before you suspect the codec.
Start with mute and volume on both devices
Apple’s guidance for streaming video from an iOS device or Mac to an Apple TV, where the picture plays but the sound does not, is direct: make sure the volume is up and nothing is muted on either end. Apple Support, “If screen mirroring or streaming isn’t working on your AirPlay-compatible device” (dated September 23, 2025), states: “If you can’t hear audio when streaming videos from your iOS device or Mac to your Apple TV, make sure the volume has been turned up and isn’t muted on both your iOS device and your television or receiver.”
- Raise the volume on the phone, tablet, or computer, and confirm the device’s mute switch or mute setting is off.
- Press the volume up button on the TV or receiver remote, and check that the TV is not muted. Some sets show a mute icon on screen when this is the case.
- If a Bluetooth headset, earbuds, or speaker is paired to the source, disconnect it or switch the audio output back to the built-in speakers. Sound can continue to play on the paired device while the TV stays silent.
- Play a different video or a short test clip in the same app. If that also plays silently, the cause is on the TV side or in the connection, not in one file.
Identify how you are sending the picture
“Casting” is used loosely. Two readers who both say they cast to the TV may be doing very different things, and each has different audio behavior. Confirm which method you are using before changing settings.
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1Scan for outdated or missing drivers - takes under a minute2Repair Windows errors before they cause bigger problems3Fix the driver behind crashes, sound loss and screen glitches| Method | What is sent to the TV | Where the sound should come from | What to check first |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-screen mirroring (Miracast, such as Sony BRAVIA “Screen mirroring”) | Everything on the source screen | The source sends audio with the picture to the TV | Whether the source supports Miracast and whether the TV’s mirroring mode is active |
| AirPlay mirroring (Apple devices) | The full screen of an iPhone, iPad, or Mac | The AirPlay receiver (Apple TV or an AirPlay-compatible TV or speaker) | Same Wi-Fi network, receiver permissions, and that the receiver is not muted |
| In-app casting (cast button inside a streaming app) | Only the video stream; the app plays it on the TV | The TV or receiver plays the app’s stream directly | Whether the phone’s volume controls the TV at all, and the app’s own volume and mute |
| Wired HDMI or adapter | Video and audio over a cable | The TV or AV receiver through its HDMI input | The HDMI input selected, the cable, and the TV’s audio output setting |
If you are casting from inside an app, the phone’s volume may not affect the TV at all. Adjust volume in the app and on the TV. Mirroring the whole screen is a separate case, covered next.
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Check protocol and model compatibility
Mirroring support depends on the protocol and on the exact models at each end. Sony’s BRAVIA Help Guide describes its “Screen mirroring” feature as using Miracast, and says Wi-Fi devices such as phones and tablets must support Miracast. The same guide states: “BRAVIA TV complies with the Miracast specification, but does not guarantee a successful connection with all devices.” Treat that as a warning that compatibility is device by device, not a promise. The guide is written for specific older models and versions, so check the manual for your own TV and source. Menu names and steps differ between models.
- Confirm the source phone or tablet supports Miracast. Its manual or the manufacturer’s support pages list this, though labels vary (for example, “Wireless display,” “Cast,” or “Screen cast”).
- Confirm the TV’s own mirroring or screen-sharing mode is turned on and the TV is ready to receive before starting from the phone.
- Apple devices use AirPlay rather than Miracast. Apple’s AirPlay steps are a separate path from the Sony Miracast steps.
Fix wireless conditions
Sony’s guide lists other wireless LAN devices and microwave ovens as possible interference for its Miracast screen-mirroring function. It also says communication depends on distance, obstructions, device configuration, radio conditions, and network congestion. For a wireless connection that drops or stutters with the audio, try these in order:
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- Move the source device closer to the TV.
- Remove obstacles between the two devices where you can.
- Stop other screen-mirroring sessions that are running on the same TV, then reconnect.
- Keep the source away from a microwave oven while it is running, and away from routers and other wireless devices where possible.
Results vary by home and hardware. For AirPlay problems more broadly, Apple advises checking that the devices are powered on and close together, that software is current, that both are on the same Wi-Fi network, that AirPlay receiving permissions are set, and restarting both devices.
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Some paid content is protected, and the protection can stop playback on a connection that does not meet its requirements. Sony states that some paid content may require the source device to meet HDCP 2.0, 2.1, or 2.2 standards. Apple notes that films, television shows, and some streaming apps need an HDCP-compatible connection when a wired adapter is used.
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The useful test is scope. If only one protected app is silent or blank while other videos and apps play with sound, look at that app’s supported playback route and device requirements. If every video from every source is silent, the cause is more likely a volume, output, or connection problem. Protection rules are a reason a picture may be missing or limited, but they are not a general explanation for silent audio, and the guidance above does not establish that they silence mirrored audio on their own.
Check the TV or soundbar audio chain
If your TV sound goes to an AV receiver or soundbar, the audio route is a separate possible fault. Google’s guidance for Google TV streaming devices connected through an AVR or soundbar is to test the streaming device directly on the TV first. If the audio works in that test, the issue is in the chain between the TV and the audio system.
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- Connect the Google TV streaming device directly to the TV’s HDMI port, bypassing the AVR or soundbar.
- Play a video. If sound works, reconnect the audio system.
- Route the TV’s sound to the receiver or soundbar through the ARC or eARC port, as your equipment supports.
- Check the HDMI-CEC settings on the TV, receiver, and streaming device, since these control how the devices share volume and power.
Google’s steps are written for Google TV devices and the HDMI chain. They do not show the cause of every wireless mirroring problem.
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Consider a wired connection for compatible Apple devices
Apple describes Digital AV adapters with HDMI for mirroring compatible iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch models to a secondary display. The adapter must match the device’s connector. Apple’s guidance says VGA does not carry audio, so a VGA adapter will not help with silent sound. Some protected video also requires HDCP, so a protected film may not play over the adapter. A wired adapter is an option when wireless fails, not a universal fix. Check Apple’s Digital AV adapter help page to confirm which adapter fits your device and whether your app and display are compatible.
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Is it a codec mismatch?
A codec mismatch is a real possibility in some setups, but it is a hypothesis to test, not the default explanation. A secondary article, Robots.net’s “Why Is There No Sound When I Mirror My Phone to the TV?”, presents codec mismatch as a frequent cause. None of the official guidance cited here, from Apple, Sony, or Google, gives a figure for how often silent mirroring is caused by a codec problem, so no prevalence figure should be assumed.
Only consider a codec explanation after the checks above pass and the setup is clearly supported. That means a device manual or supported-format list for your exact source and receiver shows the format is supported, and the failure repeats with the same content on the same pair of devices. A codec mismatch should not be assumed from a picture without sound alone.
- Sound works in one app but not another on the same connection: look at the app’s playback route and protection first.
- Sound fails across all sources, with volume and mute correct: check the TV’s audio output, the receiver or soundbar route, and the wireless conditions.
- Sound fails only on one format or file type, with a supported-format list for the device confirming the gap: a codec issue becomes a reasonable explanation.
Keep the device manuals and the menu names for your exact models close at hand when you check these, because the steps differ between brands and years.
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