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David Lanher’s restaurant philosophy is summed up in his own words: “On ne fait pas de la haute gastronomie, mais on fait de la très bonne cuisine” — “We don’t do haute cuisine, but we do very good food.” In a 1 October 2026 interview with Le Monde, the Paris restaurateur describes a group shaped by refreshed bistro cooking, carefully sourced ingredients and the people who work in his restaurants.
Who is David Lanher?
Lanher is a restaurateur whose career, as he recounts it to Le Monde, moved from restaurant work to ownership in Paris. He says he was interested in restaurants from childhood. After working in restaurants, he spent a year in New York, returned to Paris and worked for three years at luxury caterer Potel et Chabot.
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He says his first step into restaurant ownership came when he acquired and relaunched Le Café Moderne near Place de la Bourse. In 2009, he bought Racines in the Passage des Panoramas. He later opened a New York restaurant called Racines, which became Chambers, according to the interview.
What restaurants are associated with Groupe Racines?
In the 1 October 2026 interview, Lanher reports having six restaurants in Paris and one in New York. The venues listed are:
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- Paris: BA/C, Le Bon Saint-Pourçain, La Crèmerie, Café Sarah, Le Pont traversé and Racines.
- New York: Chambers.
This is the footprint reported in that interview, not a live directory; check current listings before planning a visit. Lanher also recalls taking over and later selling Vivant, Vivant 2 and Caffè Stern, which became Stern Ristorante.
How does Lanher describe his cooking and restaurant style?
Lanher characterizes the group’s food as traditional bistro cooking refreshed rather than haute gastronomy. He pairs that approach with an attractive but unpretentious setting and ingredients sourced with care. His concise description is: “On ne fait pas de la haute gastronomie, mais on fait de la très bonne cuisine.”
He also credits his teams with defining the Groupe Racines style. In his account, the people in the kitchens and dining rooms are loyal, supportive and talented, and feel comfortable in their workplaces. These are Lanher’s own descriptions of his management and restaurant group, rather than an independent assessment.
Why does roast chicken matter to him?
Lanher names roast chicken as his emblematic family dish, saying he prepares it at least once a week. He describes it as adaptable to personal preferences and the seasons; at the time of the interview, he was making it with lemons. The interview presents the dish as part of his home life and as a meal shared with people he loves.
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- NEW YORK TIMES BEST SELLER For sixty years, this has been the definitive cookbook on French cuisine for American readers. It deserves a place of honor in every kitchen.
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