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A retro terminal bartop arcade topper is a swappable control panel that turns one bartop cabinet into either an arcade machine or a retro-styled computer terminal. The example covered here is valkyrie0528’s “Retro Terminal Control Panel for Bartop Arcade Cab,” documented on Hackaday.io and written up by Hackaday on October 8, 2026 as part of the 2026 Retrocomputing Challenge. The arcade controls handle play. The terminal panel swaps in a full keyboard, a touchpad, and USB access so the cabinet can be used like an early-1980s home computer.

How the swappable panel works

The cabinet has a standard arcade-control unit. The terminal panel is built to take its place, so the same cavity serves two roles. With the arcade panel removed, the creator found that a keyboard placed in the cavity made the machine feel like an 8-bit home computer, and the swappable panel grew out of that observation.

What the terminal panel contains

The terminal panel, as documented by its creator, holds three input components:

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  • An 86-key mechanical keyboard. The page does not name the model, so the exact key layout and width are not stated.
  • A touchpad module. It replaces a separate mouse, so the setup can remain self-contained on the cabinet.
  • A two-port USB breakout. It provides access for thumb drives or controllers without opening the cabinet’s rear panel.

The keyboard, touchpad, and breakout all connect to a USB hub that stays inside the control-panel cavity. Only the breakout is meant to be reached from outside, which is what keeps everyday use of the ports convenient.

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Arcade panel versus terminal panel

The two panels differ in what they expose and what they require from the cabinet. The table below uses only what the project documentation states.

Feature Arcade control panel Retro terminal panel
Primary use Playing arcade games Terminal and computer emulation
Input devices Arcade controls 86-key mechanical keyboard and touchpad
External USB access Not stated Two-port USB breakout reachable without opening the rear panel
USB hub location Not stated Inside the control-panel cavity
Construction Standard cabinet unit; materials not stated Scrap 12 mm plywood with woodgrain vinyl laminate and PVC edge trim
Fastening Not stated Simple wooden straps screwed underneath to hold components

Software: CoolRetroTerm for the look, separate tools for real hardware

In terminal mode the machine runs CoolRetroTerm, which the owner configured to show simulated scanlines and green or amber text. The project page does not identify the host computer model or a software version.

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CoolRetroTerm is a GUI terminal emulator that simulates the appearance of a CRT screen, with adjustable effects and profiles. It supplies the display styling only. Hackaday’s explainer on the software, which dates to 2023, states that a serial-terminal program such as Minicom must run inside it to talk to physical vintage hardware. If you plan to connect a real legacy machine, treat CoolRetroTerm as the screen and the serial program as the link, and confirm current package availability and compatibility before you install, since the explainer is three years old.

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The creator also provides a downloadable 16:9 PNG named teac_bk_1c.png. It shows dual vertical TEAC 5.25-inch floppy drives inside a bezel and is meant as a CoolRetroTerm wallpaper. It is not hardware, and the build does not include floppy drives.

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  • Light-up marquee bar with swappable marquees (3 included)

What the build cost, and what that figure covers

The creator reports that the entire cabinet, including both control panels, cost less than US$50. That figure belongs to this one project, as reported by its owner on the Hackaday.io page as of October 8, 2026. It is not an independently verified parts budget, and it should not be used as a current general estimate. Prices for keyboards, touchpads, USB hubs, and plywood vary by region and change over time, so price your own parts before you plan a build.

Planning a similar panel

The project page does not test retail products, so the following are practical criteria drawn from the documented design rather than tested recommendations. Before you buy parts, check each one against the cavity you actually have.

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  • Keyboard width and layout. Measure the cavity first. An 86-key board is the size the creator used, but the cavity dimensions for this cabinet are not stated, so the fit is yours to confirm.
  • Pointing device. The creator considered a small trackball but did not find one they liked within the budget, so the build uses a touchpad. Decide whether a touchpad is enough for how you will use the machine.
  • USB layout. Place the hub inside the cavity and the breakout where you can reach it when the panel is in place. Keep enough slack in the cables that the panel can still be removed and swapped.
  • Panel materials. The documented panel uses 12 mm plywood, held with wooden straps screwed underneath, and finished with woodgrain vinyl laminate and PVC edge trim to match the cabinet. Match thickness and finish to your own cabinet rather than copying the measurements.
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What the project does and does not establish

The documentation establishes the component list, the swappable design, the USB arrangement, the software setup, and the creator’s cost figure. It does not establish a wiring diagram, cabinet dimensions, the exact keyboard or touchpad model, the host-computer platform, or a tested list of compatible devices. Treat the build as a documented example of the approach, not as a kit you can order and assemble to the same result. Contest entries were still open when Hackaday published its article on October 8, 2026, so check the contest page for current rules and status.

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