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Stop using the damaged part, photograph it, and open a Starlink Support ticket with the affected kit, shipping address, symptoms, and troubleshooting results. First remove third-party equipment, reseat every Starlink connection, try another power outlet, and test a known-good spare cable or component if you have one. If the spare restores service, Starlink’s checklist says to contact Support for a replacement.
Do these checks before ordering anything
Physical damage can affect the dish, mast or mount, dish-to-power-supply cable, router cable, power supply, Ethernet Adapter, or router. Do not assume that a generic satellite or networking part will fit. Starlink replacement decisions depend on the kit generation, service location, seller, and the equipment recorded on your account.
- Photograph the damage. Take clear pictures of the entire component and close-ups of cuts, crushed sections, sharp bends, cracked housings, bent or recessed pins, damaged connectors, water or weather damage, and broken mounts. Include cable labels and both ends of every affected cable.
- Identify the affected Starlink. If your account has more than one Starlink, record which service location or kit is offline. Confirm the shipping address shown on the account before contacting Support.
- Remove third-party equipment temporarily. Disconnect non-Starlink routers, mesh systems, switches, and other accessories while testing. Connect the Starlink equipment in its normal direct arrangement so a damaged accessory or configuration does not obscure the fault.
- Reseat every Starlink connection. Disconnect power before inspecting a connector. Reconnect each plug fully and squarely; never force a plug with bent pins or a cracked housing.
- Try another power outlet. A failed outlet or power strip can look like a damaged router or power supply.
- Test a known-good spare. If you have a compatible spare cable or component, substitute it one part at a time. Starlink’s troubleshooting checklist specifically recommends trying a spare cable running from the dish to the power supply when cable alerts appear or the cable is damaged. If the spare brings Starlink online, contact Support to issue a replacement.
- Submit the evidence. Include photos, the affected item, the symptoms, the steps you completed, and whether a spare changed the result. Starlink says Support will guide the next steps.
How to tell which part failed
Follow the cable path rather than replacing the first component that looks suspicious. A typical installation has a dish, a dish cable to the power supply, a power supply to the router connection, and then wired or wireless network equipment. Damage at one connector can interrupt the whole system.
| What you observe | What to inspect first | Useful test |
|---|---|---|
| Dish is cracked, the mast is bent, or the mount no longer holds it securely | Dish housing, mast, mount hardware, and both dish connectors | Photograph it and stop using an unsafe installation; ask Support about the kit-specific replacement |
| Dashboard shows cable alerts or the cable has cuts, crushing, or recessed pins | Full dish-to-power-supply cable and its connectors | Try a compatible known-good cable; if service returns, report the result to Support |
| Router has no light after an impact or cable damage | Outlet, power cord, power supply, router cable, and router ports | Use another outlet, reseat connections, power-cycle, and test a compatible spare |
| Starlink works directly but not through a mesh or third-party router | Ethernet Adapter, Ethernet cable, and third-party router path | Remove the third-party path and retest the Starlink equipment directly |
Dish, mast, and mount damage
Cracked dish or damaged connector
A crack, bent mast, damaged connector, or exposed internal part is a hardware issue, not a setting that can be corrected in the app. Photograph the defect from several angles and describe when it occurred. Do not seal, splice, drill, or bend the assembly in an attempt to make it usable; an improvised repair can create a second fault and make the connector harder for Support to assess.
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Keep people clear of a dish that has become unstable. If it is on a roof, pole, or other difficult-to-access location, do not climb out to retrieve it unless you can do so safely. A qualified installer can assess access and mounting risk. Before hiring anyone, verify that the provider is authorized for the work and check any local program terms that apply to installation assistance.
Mount failure
Photograph the mount, fasteners, mast interface, and the surface to which it is attached. Tell Support whether the dish itself still powers on and whether the failure is structural or electrical. Starlink’s replacement decision is tied to the kit and service record, so a generic satellite-dish mount is not a reliable substitute.
Damaged dish or router cables
Inspect the complete cable, not just the visible break
Run your inspection from end to end. Look for cuts, crushing, severe kinks, sharp bends, abrasion, weather damage, loose plugs, cracked connector bodies, bent pins, and pins pushed back into the housing. A cable can fail internally even when its jacket looks intact, so a spare-cable test is more useful than visual inspection alone.
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Use only a cable that matches the connector and generation of your kit. Starlink’s checklist refers to the spare cable running between the dish and the power supply; do not substitute an unrelated Ethernet, USB, or power lead. If the spare restores service, tell Support which cable was replaced and include the original cable’s photos.
High Performance router cable
Starlink’s High Performance accessory guide specifies a 2 m (6.5 ft) Router Cable as a replacement between the power supply and router for High Performance, Flat High Performance, and Gen 2 Mesh WiFi Router equipment. That length and equipment list do not establish compatibility with every Starlink kit. Confirm your model and connector arrangement before purchasing.
Do not make a field splice
Cutting and joining a Starlink cable, fitting a random coupler, or forcing a connector into a damaged port can compromise signal and weather resistance. Preserve the original part for Support’s assessment and use a model-compatible replacement instead.
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Router or power-supply damage
Router with no light
A dark router LED after physical damage does not by itself prove that the router is defective. Check the wall outlet, power cord, power supply, router cable, and the router’s ports. Try a different outlet, reseat each connection, and power-cycle by disconnecting power, reconnecting it securely, and allowing the equipment to start. Remove third-party networking equipment during this test.
If you have a known-good, generation-compatible spare power supply, cable, or router, test one replacement at a time and note the result. Do not mix parts merely because the plugs appear similar. Send Support the LED behavior, any Dashboard alerts, the part that was substituted, and whether service returned.
Router 3 compatibility
Starlink’s standard accessories guide lists Router 3 together with its included power supply and cable, but compatibility is limited to the Starlink generations specified in that guide. Check the generation before ordering a router or power supply; a physically similar unit may not be an approved replacement for your kit.
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Ethernet Adapter and third-party router damage
Starlink says an Ethernet Adapter is required to connect a third-party router or mesh system by wire. If the adapter is cracked, its port is loose, or its cable connector is damaged, remove the third-party path and test Starlink’s equipment directly first. This separates an adapter or external-router fault from a dish, power, or router failure.
Replace a damaged adapter with a generation-compatible Starlink Ethernet Adapter. A generic USB-to-Ethernet dongle is not an equivalent substitute because it may not provide the required Starlink connection or physical fit. When contacting Support, report whether the Starlink router provides service without the adapter and include photographs of both adapter ports.
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Starlink states that warranty coverage depends on the kit model, service location, and equipment seller. Physical damage is therefore not automatically covered. The outcome can differ between hardware that arrived damaged, hardware damaged during installation, and equipment that later failed without visible damage.
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| Path | When it makes sense | What to provide or verify |
|---|---|---|
| Warranty or Support replacement | The kit arrived damaged, diagnostics indicate a failed Starlink component, or you need Starlink to determine eligibility | Photos, affected item, account and shipping details, symptoms, and all test results. For hardware that arrived damaged, Starlink directs customers to request a replacement kit through Support. |
| Official model-compatible part | The damage is outside warranty and the required part is listed for your kit | Generation, connector type, part description, and current availability in the Starlink Shop. Prices and stock are not universal and can change by location. |
| Professional installation help | The dish, cable, or mount is on a roof, pole, or otherwise unsafe to reach | Provider authorization, local service terms, safe access plan, and confirmation of which component needs replacement. |
Starlink says replacement parts may include cables, mounts, Ethernet Adapters, and routers, but availability is model-specific. Standard 4 and Standard 4 X dish, cable, and router parts are not currently listed individually in the cited guidance. Some older Standard (Circular) parts also require Support rather than a direct shop purchase. Treat the shop listing for your account and region as the current availability check; do not infer that an unlisted part is interchangeable.
How to prepare a useful Support ticket
A complete ticket reduces back-and-forth and gives Support enough information to choose between troubleshooting, a part, or a replacement kit. Organize the details in this order:
- Kit identity: identify the Starlink service location and the visible model or generation of the dish, router, and accessory.
- Damage description: state exactly what is cracked, cut, crushed, bent, loose, or missing and whether the damage was present on arrival or happened later.
- Symptoms: describe the router LED, Dashboard cable alerts, loss of connectivity, dish movement, or any unusual sound or smell.
- Tests completed: list reseating, removal of third-party equipment, another outlet, power cycling, and every spare-part substitution.
- Results: say which test restored service, partially changed the symptoms, or made no difference.
- Photos and logistics: attach the damage photos, identify the affected Starlink on the account, and confirm the shipping address.
Do not discard the damaged part until Support tells you that it is unnecessary. Keep replacement packaging and shipment details if a kit or component is sent, because they may be needed for a return or follow-up.
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- Stop immediately if there are exposed conductors, a burnt smell, melted plastic, water inside a power component, or a hot or sparking connector.
- Stop climbing or reaching for a roof- or pole-mounted dish when access is unstable or weather is unsafe.
- Do not energize equipment with a visibly damaged power cord or connector.
- Do not continue swapping parts after a known-good compatible spare has restored service; document that result and contact Support for the replacement process.
The practical order is simple: make the installation safe, document the damage, isolate Starlink equipment from third-party hardware, test only compatible spares, and let Support match the replacement to your kit and service record.
Quick Recap
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