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Yes. Sharpen both sides. A chainsaw chain alternates left-hand and right-hand cutters, and both sets must be sharpened for the chain to cut straight and efficiently. Complete every cutter facing one direction, then reverse the saw, guide bar, or chain setup and sharpen the cutters facing the other direction.
Why both sides of the chain must be sharpened
Each cutter removes wood from one side of the kerf. If the left- and right-hand cutters are not equally sharp, the chain removes more material on one side than the other. The saw may then pull sideways, cut inaccurately, vibrate, or require excessive force.
Unequal cutter lengths can cause the same problem even when every tooth has been touched with a file. Treat sharpening as one complete job: both cutter directions, consistent cutter lengths, and correctly set depth gauges.
How to sharpen both sides
- Secure the saw and bar. Engage the chain brake and place the saw on a stable surface, or secure the bar in a suitable vice. Wear protective gloves and make sure the chain cannot move unexpectedly.
- Identify the correct file and guide. Match the round file diameter and filing guide to the chain’s exact pitch and gauge. An incorrect file can leave the cutting edge at the wrong shape or height.
- Set the filing angle. The file should sit at 90 degrees to the filing-guide rollers. The recommended top-plate filing angle is commonly between 25 and 35 degrees, depending on the chain type. Follow the specification for your particular chain rather than choosing an angle by eye.
- File the first set of cutters. Choose all cutters pointing in one direction, usually every second cutter. Push the file smoothly away from your body through each cutter. Use the same number of controlled strokes and maintain the same angle. Continue until the dull or damaged edge is removed, then keep cutter lengths consistent.
- Reverse the setup. Turn the saw around, rotate the guide bar, or reposition the chain so you can file from the opposite direction. Sharpen every cutter facing the other way using the same method. Left- and right-hand cutters require the filing guide to be oriented for that direction.
- Inspect the results. Compare cutter lengths and top-plate angles around the chain. Replace or seek professional help if a cutter is badly damaged, cracked, or has become substantially shorter than the others.
- Check the depth gauges. After the cutters are sharpened, place the matching depth-gauge tool over the chain and lower any rakers that stand above the tool’s setting. Finish the raker with a flat file as specified by the chain manufacturer.
Which way do you file left- and right-hand cutters?
File the cutters that face one direction from one side of the bar, then change your position or turn the setup and file the cutters facing the opposite direction. The important point is not a universal left-versus-right hand rule; it is that the file follows the correct cutting direction and angle for each alternating cutter. A filing guide designed for the chain can show the proper orientation.
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Do you need to sharpen the rakers too?
Yes. Rakers, also called depth gauges, control how deeply each cutter enters the wood. As the cutting edges are filed back, the relative height of the rakers changes. If they are too high, the chain will cut slowly even with sharp cutters. If they are too low, the chain can grab aggressively, vibrate, and produce a rough or unsafe cut.
Under normal wear, depth gauges commonly need attention about every third or fifth cutter-sharpening session, but this is only a general interval. Cutting dirty, abrasive, frozen, or contaminated wood can change the schedule. Check them with the chain-specific gauge whenever you sharpen the cutters and lower only the amount specified by that gauge.
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Choosing a filing tool
A complete maintenance setup needs more than a round file. Compare kits by the exact chain compatibility, angle control, depth-gauge control, and the ability to hold the chain securely.
| Tool type | What it includes | Best use | Check before buying |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basic filing kit | Round file, file guide, flat file, and depth-gauge measuring tool | Separate control of cutter edges and rakers | Correct file diameter and guide for your chain pitch and gauge |
| Two-in-one filing guide | Holder, two round files, flat-file surfaces, and a built-in depth-gauge guide | Sharpening cutters and setting rakers in one guided operation | That the included files and gauge match the exact chain specification |
A guide that controls both filing angle and depth-gauge height can make results more repeatable, but it cannot compensate for the wrong file size or an unsecured chain.
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Why a chainsaw may cut crooked after sharpening
- One set of alternating cutters is still dull.
- Left- and right-hand cutters are different lengths.
- The filing angle changed between the two directions.
- One side was filed from the wrong guide orientation.
- Depth gauges were not checked, or were lowered unevenly.
- The guide bar is worn, damaged, or not aligned.
First compare cutter lengths and angles on both sides, then check the rakers with the correct gauge. If those measurements are consistent but the saw still veers, inspect the bar and chain for wear or damage before continuing to file.
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Safety checks before cutting
- Switch off the saw and secure it before filing.
- Engage the chain brake and wear protective gloves.
- File with smooth strokes away from yourself; do not force a slipping file.
- Use only the file diameter, guide, and depth-gauge setting specified for the chain.
- Run the saw only after the chain is correctly tensioned and all components are secure.
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