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Photograph every partial phase through a purpose-made solar filter secured over the front of your lens. Remove that filter only during totality, when the Moon completely covers the Sun’s bright face, and replace it immediately when sunlight reappears. Eclipse glasses protect unaided eyes; they are not camera filters. A successful sequence depends on rehearsing filter handling and manual exposure changes before eclipse day.
What makes eclipse photography dangerous
A camera lens and telescope concentrate sunlight onto internal optics and the camera sensor. The resulting heat and intensity can damage equipment and can injure your eyes if you look through the viewfinder or screen while the unfiltered Sun is in view. Treat the camera as an optical instrument that needs its own solar protection, not as an extension of your eclipse glasses.
The safe rule changes only for the short interval called totality. During totality, the Moon completely hides the Sun’s bright photosphere, allowing direct observation of the fainter corona. Before and after that interval, even a narrow bright crescent is hazardous without proper solar filtration.
NASA’s safety guidance states: “You can view the eclipse directly without proper eye protection only when the Moon completely obscures the Sun’s bright face – during the brief and spectacular period known as totality.” The statement applies to direct viewing by the unaided eye; your camera still needs the correct filter during every partial phase.
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- Black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars.
- These sheets are a quality product of Thousand Oaks Optical, Arizona, a manufacturer of safe solar filters for over 30 years. "Stronger than Mylar with the filtering properties protected within the substrate. Guaranteed five years."
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING!
The phase-by-phase filter sequence
Before first contact
Install a purpose-made solar filter on the front of the camera lens before the Moon begins to cover the Sun. Check that it fits the exact lens diameter, covers the entire front opening, and cannot slip, tilt or blow away. Confirm that the filter material is intended for optical equipment and follow its installation instructions.
Compose and focus with the filter attached. If your camera offers live view, use it rather than looking through an unfiltered optical viewfinder. Keep the lens pointed at the Sun only as long as needed to make the photograph; a filter is a safety barrier, not a reason to leave the camera aimed indefinitely.
During the partial phases
Leave the solar filter in place while any bright portion of the Sun is visible. This includes the long period before totality and the partial phase after totality. Do not remove it for a thinner crescent, a dramatic landscape composition, or because the camera image looks dim.
Eclipse glasses and handheld solar viewers are designed for direct viewing by the unaided eye. They are not camera filters. Never put eclipse glasses over a lens, and never look through a camera, binocular or telescope while wearing eclipse glasses; concentrated light can still reach your eye through the instrument.
At the start of totality
Remove the camera filter only after the Moon completely covers the Sun’s bright face and totality has begun. The filter should be secure during the partial phase but removable quickly and predictably. A screw-on filter can be awkward to take off and replace under time pressure; a properly fitted magnetic design may be easier to handle, although the correct size may not be available for every lens.
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- SOLAR SAFE TELESCOPE FILTER: Filter conforms to the ISO 12312-2:2015(E) international safety standard for filters directly viewing the Sun. The ideal tool for viewing eclipses, sunspots, or the Sun any day!
- WORKS WITH YOUR EXISTING TELESCOPE, SPOTTING SCOPE, OR DSLR CAMERA: Compatible with objective lenses with an outside diameter of 75mm to 100mm.
- SAFE, SECURE FIT: Adjust the side panels to fit the filter to your telescope or camera and attach the elastic band to secure. When you're done observing, fold the filter flat and store it in the reusable bag.
- SOLAR FILM MADE IN THE USA: Celestron Solar Safe film is produced in the USA by American Paper Optics, one of the suppliers recommended by NASA & the American Astronomical Society for safe solar viewing, & independently tested by a third-party lab.
- GREAT VIEWS AND IMAGES: This filter features an orange tint, producing a natural look perfect for visual observing and capturing images through your telescope, spotting scope, or DSLR camera.
Keep the removed filter in a known, protected place. Do not set it where it can be blown onto the lens or lost in the dark. If you are within the path of totality, the unfiltered interval is the opportunity to record the corona and other totality features.
At the end of totality
Replace the filter as soon as any bright part of the photosphere reappears. Do not wait for a larger crescent or for a particular photograph. If you are viewing the eclipse directly, put your eclipse glasses back on at the same moment. Practise this action until you can perform it without searching for the filter or changing your grip on the camera.
If you are outside the path of totality
There is no total phase outside the path where the Moon fully covers the bright Sun. Keep the solar filter attached for the entire eclipse, from first contact through the final partial phase. You will not have a safe interval for unfiltered corona photographs.
Use the right kind of solar filter
For a camera, the filter belongs at the front of the lens. It must be purpose-made for solar observation and sized for that particular lens. Ordinary photographic neutral-density filters, polarizing filters, stacked filters, exposed film, smoked glass and improvised materials are not substitutes. Eclipse glasses placed over the lens are not substitutes either.
| Option or practice | What it is suitable for | Important limitation |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose-made front-mounted solar lens filter | Photographing the Sun during every partial phase | Must fit the lens and remain securely attached |
| Screw-on solar filter | Stable mounting when it will remain in place | May be slow or awkward to remove and replace at totality |
| Magnetic solar filter designed for the lens | Fast removal and replacement when correctly fitted | Correct diameter and reliable retention may be harder to find |
| Eclipse glasses or handheld solar viewer | Direct viewing with unaided eyes | Not a camera filter; never use over a lens or while looking through camera optics |
| Neutral-density or polarizing photographic filter | Ordinary photography, not solar viewing | Not a safe replacement for a purpose-made solar filter |
Inspect the filter before use for tears, pinholes, scratches or loose mounts. If you are uncertain whether a product is intended for solar optical use, do not point the camera at the Sun through it; consult the manufacturer’s instructions or an experienced astronomy organization. Convenience matters only after solar suitability, complete lens coverage and secure attachment have been established.
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- Black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars.
- These sheets are a quality product of Thousand Oaks Optical, Arizona, a manufacturer of safe solar filters for over 30 years. "Stronger than Mylar with the filtering properties protected within the substrate. Guaranteed five years."
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING!
Prepare the camera before eclipse day
Choose a camera and focal length
NASA’s photography guidance says that almost any camera with manual controls can photograph an eclipse. A longer focal length makes the solar disk larger in the frame, while a shorter lens includes more of the surrounding landscape. Decide whether your priority is a close-up of the disk, a wider scene showing people and place, or a sequence that combines both perspectives.
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A free scan shows the junk files, broken settings and background clutter dragging Windows down - then fixes them in one click.Free scan · Windows 10 & 11As technical examples from Fred Espenak’s NASA-hosted Solar Eclipse Photography guide, adapted from NASA RP 1383 material dated April 1996, a 50 mm lens produces a solar image of about 0.5 mm, a 200 mm telephoto or zoom about 1.9 mm, and a 500 mm mirror lens about 4.6 mm. These are guide examples, not universal guarantees: the recorded size and framing also depend on the camera and sensor.
Set up manual control
Use the camera’s manual controls where available so that the exposure does not change unexpectedly as the scene darkens. Learn the exact controls for aperture, shutter speed and focus on your model. A tripod can help with a long lens, but it does not make an unfiltered lens safe.
Turn off flash, especially on automatic cameras. A flash cannot illuminate the Sun and can distract nearby observers or spoil a carefully timed scene. Confirm that the camera can save the file format and image quality you want, and begin with a fully charged battery and sufficient storage.
Rehearse the filter and control sequence
- Mount the solar filter on the lens and verify that every edge is covered.
- Practise composing and focusing without touching the filter mount.
- Practise removing the filter with one deliberate motion and placing it in the same safe location each time.
- Practise replacing it immediately, without looking away from the camera longer than necessary.
- Rehearse changing shutter speed and recording a bracket while keeping the aperture fixed.
- Repeat the sequence in low light or with gloves if those conditions are likely at your observing site.
Totality is brief. Rehearsal prevents the most avoidable failures: fumbling the filter, losing track of whether it is attached, or spending the entire interval searching through menus.
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- Silver-black polymer is the most common filtering material for observing sunspots and granulation, through telescopes and binoculars
- Make a filter on your own for any telescope / binoculars / camera, and for a fraction of what factory made filters cost.
- The sun will appear in a natural orange color when viewed through your telescope using this filter.
- WARNING: ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE FILTER IS WELL ATTACHED TO THE TELESCOPE/BINOCULARS, USING STICKY TAPE, TO KEEP IT FROM FALLING WHILE OBSERVING.
Exposure strategy for totality
Keep the aperture fixed and bracket shutter speeds
The corona is not evenly bright. Its inner regions near the hidden Sun are much brighter than its outer extensions, so one exposure cannot show every part equally well. NASA’s photography guide recommends keeping the aperture setting fixed and bracketing shutter speeds. Make a series of exposures from shorter to longer shutter times rather than relying on a single guessed setting.
The exact shutter speeds are not universal. They depend on the camera, lens, aperture, ISO, sky transparency, atmospheric conditions and the photographer’s goal. The guidance establishes the method—fixed aperture with a range of shutter speeds—not a single setting that works for every camera. Practise the control changes in advance and review the sequence afterward to identify which exposures captured the inner and outer corona.
Do not apply partial-phase settings to totality
With the solar filter attached, the camera is recording sunlight deliberately reduced to a safe level. Once the filter is removed for totality, that filtered exposure is no longer an appropriate reference. Be ready to change shutter speed promptly, and do not assume that a setting that worked through the filter will reveal the corona.
Smartphone eclipse photography
NASA’s total-eclipse FAQ answers “Can I photograph the eclipse with my smartphone?” with yes, provided a specialized eclipse filter is between the phone camera and the Sun. The same phase rule applies to a phone as to an interchangeable-lens camera: filter the partial phases, remove the filter only during totality when you are inside the path, and replace it as soon as the bright Sun returns.
A phone’s small sensor and wide default lens generally produce a small solar disk. Use a securely attached, purpose-made phone solar filter for partial phases and avoid relying on digital zoom to solve the safety problem. Digital zoom enlarges recorded pixels; it does not reduce sunlight entering the camera. If the phone is mounted behind another optical accessory, that accessory also needs to be suitable for solar use.
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- [ALILUSSO Imaging Filter] The Filter for smartphones allows you to capture events safely and in clear detail. Whether it's the partial phases, the breathtaking diamond ring effect, or the ethereal corona during totality, our filter is designed to help you capture each stage effectively.
- [Protect your smartphone camera] We prioritize your safety while photographing the sun. The ALILUSSO Smartphone Photo Filter is a imaging filter that protects your smartphone camera from harmful rays, so you can focus on capturing the event's wonder without worry.
- [How to Use the Filter] Step 1: Place the filter over your smartphone's camera lens. Pro Tip: for best results remove your phone case. Step 2: Locate the sun in the frame, zoom in, and steady your hands. Step 3: Tap on the sun on your screen to lock focus and exposure. Step 4: Use your phone's camera settings to reduce the exposure. Then, take the picture.
- Create memories that last a lifetime and share the wonder of events with friends and family. The ALILUSSO Smartphone Photo Filter's high-quality film allows you to showcase your event photos with pride and awe.
- [WARNING] This is a smartphone filter only. Not for direct eye viewing. Looking directly at the sun, even through this filter, can cause permanent blindness and eye damage. For use by persons ages 18 and older only.
A practical timeline from first contact to last contact
Several days before the eclipse
- Confirm that your observing location lies inside the path of totality if you intend to remove the filter.
- Obtain a purpose-made solar filter that fits the exact lens or phone camera you will use.
- Read the filter’s mounting instructions and inspect it for damage.
- Practise manual focus, aperture and shutter-speed changes on the actual camera.
- Rehearse removing and replacing the filter without looking for tools or accessories.
- Charge batteries, clear storage and disable flash.
Before first contact
- Attach the filter over the front of the lens and check the mount from every side.
- Set up the tripod or stable support and compose the intended field of view.
- Confirm that the camera is not in a mode that will fire the flash automatically.
- Keep eclipse glasses available for any direct viewing away from the camera.
From first contact through the partial phase
- Keep the filter attached whenever any bright solar surface is visible.
- Monitor the filter mount rather than assuming it stayed secure after moving the camera.
- Make partial-phase images through the filter; do not use eclipse glasses over the lens.
At totality
- Verify that the bright photosphere is completely covered before removing the filter.
- Place the filter in its predetermined safe location.
- Hold the aperture constant and bracket shutter speeds for the corona’s brightness range.
- Remember that totality is the only interval when unfiltered photography is appropriate, and only for observers inside the path.
As totality ends
- Replace the filter at the first return of bright sunlight.
- Put eclipse glasses back on for direct viewing at the same point.
- Resume filtered photography for the remaining partial phase.
Common mistakes and how to correct them
Using eclipse glasses as a lens filter
This fails because glasses are designed for the eye, not for covering and securely mounting over camera optics. Use a purpose-made solar camera filter over the front of the lens instead.
Removing the filter for a crescent Sun
A thin crescent still has an intensely bright photosphere. Keep the filter on until the Moon completely covers the bright face. If any bright portion reappears, replace the filter immediately.
Leaving the filter off after totality
The end of totality arrives quickly. Agree on a simple handling routine and rehearse it so the filter is back on before the returning photosphere becomes a crescent in the frame.
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Neutral-density and polarizing filters are not established substitutes for purpose-made solar filters. Their appearance or darkness does not prove that they block the wavelengths and intensity required for safe solar photography.
Assuming a filter makes eye viewing safe
A camera filter protects the camera’s optical path; it does not protect an eye looking through a separate finder or telescope. Use certified eclipse viewing protection for unaided viewing and never look through camera optics while wearing those glasses.
Expecting one exposure to show the whole corona
The corona spans a broad brightness range. Keep the aperture fixed and make a shutter-speed bracket. Review the series later rather than forcing one exposure to represent every region.
What the available guidance does—and does not—specify
The safety and photography guidance establishes when to filter, where the filter goes, when it may be removed, and how to approach the corona’s exposure range. It does not provide universal exposure numbers, rank current filter models, or give event-specific contact and totality times. Those details depend on the eclipse date, observing location and equipment.
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Use an official event timetable for your location to determine contact times, then build your own alarm or checklist around the sequence above. Do not infer local timing from another city, because the duration and even the presence of totality vary across the eclipse path.
Quick Recap
Final safety checklist
- Purpose-made solar filter mounted over the front of the lens.
- Filter fits the exact lens or phone camera and cannot fall off.
- No ordinary neutral-density, polarizing or improvised material used as a substitute.
- Eclipse glasses reserved for unaided-eye viewing, never for use over camera optics.
- Filter removed only after complete coverage of the bright face during totality.
- Filter replaced at the first return of bright sunlight.
- Aperture fixed and shutter speeds bracketed for totality’s corona.
- Filter handling and camera controls rehearsed before the event.
- Flash disabled, batteries charged and storage available.
- Observers outside the path keep the filter attached for the entire eclipse.
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