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The correct connection depends on what “topper” means. A static illuminated marquee needs a properly rated power circuit; an LCD or dynamic topper needs a video connection to its controller; arcade buttons and joysticks need a separate USB encoder or equivalent input interface. Identify those three jobs before choosing cables or a power supply.
For a Raspberry Pi, match the board’s HDMI connector to the topper controller’s video input. For a mini PC, match that computer’s actual output to the controller input. Power the computer, display, and lighting according to their own labels and manuals, then test each subsystem separately before closing the cabinet.
Start by identifying the topper
“Arcade topper” is used for two different kinds of hardware. The distinction determines every cable and power decision.
| Topper type | What it does | Connection to the host | Separate power requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Static illuminated marquee | A printed, acrylic, or translucent panel lit by LEDs or another lamp | None for the picture; it does not receive video | Yes. Use the voltage, current, polarity, and connector specified for that light assembly |
| LCD or dynamic marquee | A screen that displays artwork, game information, animation, or other changing content | Video from the computer to the display’s controller board | Usually yes for the display/controller; confirm the exact hardware |
Before buying anything, record the Raspberry Pi model or mini PC model, the topper’s manufacturer and model, every connector you can see, and the ratings printed on the display, controller, LED assembly, and power supplies. If the topper is already installed in a commercial cabinet, look for its service label or product manual. Product-specific cabinet instructions, such as those published for Arcade1Up light-up marquees, exist because the wiring and mounting details vary by cabinet.
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Inspect an LCD topper’s controller board
An LCD panel often does not accept HDMI by itself. Find the separate controller board and identify its video input, power input, and any buttons or adjustment board attached to it. The controller may expose HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, VGA, or another input, but the available evidence does not establish one controller design that fits every arcade panel. Do not order a cable until you have read the controller label or manual.
Inspect a static marquee’s lighting assembly
Look for a label on the LED strip, light bar, inverter, or small driver board. Note the required DC voltage, current or wattage, connector polarity, and whether a switch or dimmer is included. The panel’s size and the number of LEDs are not a safe way to infer the voltage.
Plan the three independent circuits
A reliable bartop build treats the topper as three separate jobs:
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- Video: The Raspberry Pi or mini PC sends a signal to an LCD controller. A static lighted panel has no video path.
- Lighting power: The marquee’s LEDs or lamp receive power from a supply that matches their rating. This circuit can be switched, but it is not automatically powered by the computer.
- Controls: Button and joystick switches connect to a USB encoder or another suitable input interface, which then connects to the host over USB.
Separating the jobs makes troubleshooting much easier. A working game display does not prove that the marquee lighting is wired correctly, and a glowing marquee does not prove that the LCD controller is receiving a usable video signal.
Choose the correct video cable for a Raspberry Pi
Raspberry Pi models use different HDMI-family connectors. Raspberry Pi’s current getting-started documentation lists micro-HDMI for Pi 4 and later models, mini-HDMI for Zero models, and standard HDMI for several earlier boards. Verify the exact board revision before buying a cable or adapter.
| Raspberry Pi family in the official connector table | Host-side connector | What to verify at the topper |
|---|---|---|
| Pi 4 and later models listed by Raspberry Pi | Micro-HDMI | The controller’s input type and whether the chosen cable supports the required display mode |
| Zero models | Mini-HDMI | Whether a mini-HDMI cable or adapter is needed, plus the controller input |
| Several earlier boards | Standard HDMI | The controller input and any resolution or refresh limitations |
Use an adapter only when both ends and the display mode are supported. A micro-HDMI-to-HDMI cable solves a connector mismatch; it does not convert an incompatible signal standard. If the controller expects a non-HDMI input, use a compatible active adapter only when the controller documentation permits it.
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Raspberry Pi LCD connection procedure
- Shut down and unplug everything. Disconnect the Pi, the display supply, and any lighting supply while you route cables.
- Confirm the controller input. Read the label beside the socket on the LCD controller, not merely the label on the LCD panel.
- Match the Pi connector. Select micro-HDMI, mini-HDMI, or standard HDMI according to the board model.
- Connect the video cable. Plug the cable firmly into the Pi’s video output and the controller’s input. Avoid sharply bending the small micro- or mini-HDMI plug.
- Power the display/controller as specified. The Raspberry Pi documentation notes that displays may require their own power. Do not assume the Pi can supply the controller through HDMI or a convenient USB socket.
- Power the Pi with a supply suitable for that model. Raspberry Pi’s recommended power arrangements vary by board. Treat the Pi supply as a separate design decision from the topper supply.
- Boot and select the correct controller input. If the controller has an input button or on-screen menu, choose the socket used in step 4.
- Confirm a picture before installing the panel. Check that the Pi’s desktop or arcade front end appears at the expected resolution and orientation.
Special caution for the official Raspberry Pi Touch Display
The official Touch Display instructions concern that specific product, not generic arcade LCD panels. They caution against connecting GPIO power when the display is powered through its micro-USB input. If you are adapting that display for a cabinet, follow its own power instructions rather than applying a generic LCD wiring diagram.
Connect a mini PC to an LCD topper
There is no universal mini PC port layout. One model may provide HDMI, another DisplayPort or USB-C video, and a compact computer may expose more than one standard. Read the mini PC’s manual and inspect the controller board before selecting a lead.
- Identify the mini PC’s actual video output. Record the connector type and whether USB-C video requires a particular alternate mode or dock.
- Identify the topper controller input. Confirm that it is an input, not an auxiliary output or service connector.
- Check display-mode support. Make sure the mini PC can output a resolution and refresh rate accepted by the controller. Do not assume that a cable alone resolves a mode mismatch.
- Choose the cable or active adapter. Match both connector ends and use an active converter when the standards require conversion.
- Connect display power independently. Use the controller’s specified supply and leave enough slack to remove the panel for service.
- Boot the mini PC and select the correct input. Set the operating system to a supported mode, then verify the image before fastening the topper.
The computer’s performance, price, and emulation capability are not established by the connector choice. Choose the mini PC on the basis of the software you intend to run, physical fit, cooling, USB availability, and a confirmed video match.
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Power a static illuminated marquee safely
A static marquee needs lighting power, not a video cable. Use the exact voltage and current specified by the light assembly. A 5-volt, 12-volt, or other rating cannot be inferred from another cabinet, a similarly sized panel, or the appearance of the LEDs.
Basic lighting-power sequence
- Read the label or manual. Record voltage, current, polarity, connector type, and any required driver or inverter.
- Select a suitably rated supply. The supply must match the specified voltage and provide at least the required current. Use the manufacturer’s guidance for connector polarity and grounding.
- Keep lighting wiring separate from signal wiring. Route the LED power leads so they do not pull on HDMI or USB plugs and cannot be pinched by the topper frame.
- Install an accessible switch if required. A low-voltage switch can control the marquee when its rating is appropriate. Do not substitute a mains switch or splice mains wiring without equipment and electrical knowledge suited to that work.
- Test with the host off first. Energize the lighting circuit alone and check for even illumination, heat, flicker, odor, or a connector that becomes warm.
Arcade wiring resources commonly treat LED marquee lighting, control panels, audio, and power switching as separate installation tasks. That separation is useful: it lets you replace a light strip without disturbing the computer and keeps a lighting fault from being mistaken for a display fault.
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Connect buttons and joysticks through a USB encoder
Arcade controls do not normally connect to the marquee. Wire each button and joystick switch to a USB encoder or equivalent control interface, then connect the encoder to the Raspberry Pi or mini PC over USB. Bartop arcade plans describe this encoder-based approach for both kinds of host.
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Size the encoder before you buy
- Count every required input: joystick directions, action buttons, start and select buttons, coin or service buttons, and any hotkey buttons.
- Check the encoder’s terminal layout and whether it includes the harnesses your controls use.
- Confirm that the switches are compatible with the encoder’s input method and that the USB lead reaches the host’s mounting position.
- Allow spare inputs if you expect to add buttons later, but do not assume that an unspecified kit is plug-and-play.
Control wiring procedure
- Disconnect host power. Work with the Pi or mini PC unplugged.
- Mount the controls and encoder. Keep the encoder away from sharp edges and leave room to unplug the USB lead.
- Wire the common and signal terminals. Follow the encoder’s printed labels and the control manufacturer’s terminal diagram.
- Connect the encoder to the host by USB. Use a direct port first, avoiding an unpowered hub during initial testing.
- Open the game system’s input configuration. Assign each direction and button, then test every switch individually.
- Secure the harness. Use strain relief so opening the control panel cannot pull a terminal loose.
GameRoomSolutions publishes a control-panel wiring resource, but its guidance is not a universal standard for every encoder. Treat the actual encoder labels and control documentation as authoritative.
Optional host-triggered marquee power
Some dynamic marquee systems document an optional relay power strip that switches an attached load when the host computer’s USB signal is present. Pixelcade describes a setup using the USB 5-volt and ground signal for this purpose. This is an optional arrangement for electrically compatible hardware, not a requirement for every topper.
Use a relay only when the relay module, power strip, marquee supply, and load ratings are compatible. Follow the relay and marquee manufacturers’ wiring instructions, enclose exposed terminals, provide strain relief, and keep hazardous mains conductors out of reach. If you only need a lighted panel to turn on, a correctly rated manual low-voltage switch is simpler and easier to diagnose.
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Test before closing the cabinet or hiding the cables. A staged check isolates faults instead of creating several at once.
- Video only: Connect the host, LCD controller, display supply, and video cable. Confirm a stable picture and the expected orientation.
- Controls only: Connect the USB encoder, map the inputs in the operating system or arcade software, and test each button and joystick direction.
- Lighting only: Power the static marquee or its replacement illumination without relying on the computer. Check brightness, polarity, heat, and flicker.
- Switching option: If using a relay, test the relay with the intended load and verify that the host’s USB signal turns it on and off as documented.
- Full system: Start the computer, display, controls, and marquee together. Watch for USB disconnects, display dropouts, unexpected resets, or a supply that becomes hot.
Raspberry Pi or mini PC: which host fits the connection?
| Decision factor | Raspberry Pi | Mini PC |
|---|---|---|
| Video connector | Varies by model; Pi 4 and later use micro-HDMI in Raspberry Pi’s current table, Zero models use mini-HDMI, and several earlier boards use standard HDMI | Varies by model; inspect the actual HDMI, DisplayPort, USB-C, or other output |
| Marquee software | Pixelcade documents software support for Raspberry Pi | Pixelcade documents software support for Windows PC |
| USB needs | Must provide a suitable port for the encoder and may provide the USB signal used by a compatible relay arrangement | Must provide a suitable port for the encoder and any documented relay signal |
| Power layout | Use the model-appropriate Pi supply, then budget separately for the display and lighting | Use the computer’s specified supply, then budget separately for the display and lighting |
| Physical installation | Plan mounting, cable retention, and cooling inside the bartop | Measure the chassis, power brick, ventilation clearance, and cable bend radius |
| Speed, price, and emulation advantage | Not established for this connection question | Not established for this connection question |
The practical choice is the host that fits the cabinet, offers the required software support, exposes a compatible video output, has enough USB connectivity, and can be powered and cooled reliably. There is no evidence here for a universal performance winner.
Parts checklist before assembly
- Host: Raspberry Pi model or mini PC model, with its own suitable power supply.
- Video lead: Cable or adapter selected for the host connector and the LCD controller input.
- LCD controller supply: The exact voltage and current specified by that controller.
- Static marquee supply: A supply or driver matched to the LED assembly’s rating and polarity.
- USB encoder: Enough inputs, compatible terminals, and suitable harnesses for the chosen buttons and joysticks.
- Optional relay: Only when its ratings and the marquee load are confirmed.
- Mounting and safety hardware: Strain relief, cable clips, insulation, ventilation clearance, and an accessible shutoff.
Troubleshoot by symptom
The LCD topper is completely blank
- Confirm that the controller has power and that its indicator, if any, is lit.
- Verify the controller’s selected input.
- Check that the cable is in the Pi’s or mini PC’s video output rather than a service socket.
- Recheck the host connector type: micro-HDMI, mini-HDMI, standard HDMI, or the mini PC’s actual output.
- Try a supported display mode and test the host with another known-good display if available.
- Inspect the controller board label; the LCD panel itself may not accept the cable directly.
The picture appears briefly, flickers, or drops out
- Check that the display/controller supply is adequate and its plug is fully seated.
- Replace an excessively long, damaged, or sharply bent cable.
- Reduce the host’s resolution or refresh rate to a mode documented by the controller.
- Keep power leads and signal cables physically separated where practical.
The static marquee does not light
- Read the light assembly label again and verify voltage, polarity, and connector pinout.
- Check the fuse, switch, dimmer, driver, and inline connector if the assembly includes them.
- Test the supply with the expected load and look for a loose crimp or broken conductor.
- Do not substitute a different-voltage supply simply because its plug fits.
The marquee is dim, uneven, or hot
- Look for an undersized supply, a failing driver, a poor connector, or a light strip that is not mounted as specified.
- Disconnect power if any connector or wire becomes unusually warm, smells of insulation, or shows discoloration.
- Check whether the panel requires a diffuser, inverter, or dedicated driver rather than direct LED power.
Buttons or joystick directions are not detected
- Confirm that the encoder appears as a USB input device.
- Check the common and signal terminals against the encoder labels.
- Test one switch at a time in the host’s input screen.
- Move the encoder to a direct USB port and temporarily remove hubs or extension leads.
- Verify that the software is reading the intended device and that no duplicate mapping is overriding it.
The relay does not switch the marquee
- Confirm that the host USB port provides the signal expected by the relay documentation.
- Check the relay’s input polarity, ground connection, and trigger mode.
- Verify the load rating and test the relay without the final cabinet wiring.
- If the relay or load involves mains voltage, stop and use a qualified electrician rather than improvising a connection.
Common installation mistakes to avoid
- Buying by appearance: Two toppers can look identical while using different controller inputs or lighting voltages.
- Assuming HDMI powers the display: The display/controller normally has its own supply.
- Using the Pi as a lighting supply: The Pi’s board power requirements do not establish a safe supply for an unrelated LED assembly.
- Mixing the control and video paths: Buttons belong on the USB encoder; they do not plug into the LCD controller.
- Closing the cabinet too early: A hidden loose connector is harder to diagnose than an exposed one tested on the bench.
- Ignoring cooling and access: Leave airflow around the host and enough cable slack to service the controller and encoder.
- Treating one vendor’s wiring as universal: A documented Pixelcade relay or LCD arrangement applies to compatible Pixelcade hardware, not every marquee.
Final connection map
For an LCD topper, the finished arrangement is: Raspberry Pi or mini PC video output → matching cable or adapter → LCD controller video input; the controller receives its own specified power. For a static marquee, the arrangement is: correctly rated lighting supply or switch → LED assembly, with no video cable. For either build, arcade switches → compatible USB encoder → host USB port. Keep those paths distinct, verify every rating from the actual hardware, and test them one at a time.
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