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The correct drill bit is determined first by the material, then by the hole’s size, finish and depth. Use a centering-point bit for accurate, clean wood holes; an HSS twist bit for ordinary metal; a carbide-tipped masonry bit for brick, block and concrete; and a carbide or diamond tile bit matched to the tile. Use hammer action only with a compatible masonry bit and substrate. Never use hammer mode on tile, and do not expect one general-purpose bit to give the best result in every material.
Start with the workpiece, not the drill-bit coating
Drill bits cut in different ways. Wood fibers, metal, mineral-based masonry and glazed tile each place different demands on the cutting edge. A bit that works well in one material can skate, overheat, chip the surface or fail to cut in another.
Before buying or fitting a bit, identify four things:
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- Hole requirements: pilot hole, through-hole, recess, anchor hole, diameter and depth.
- Surface finish: whether a clean entry and exit edge matters or a rough utility opening is acceptable.
- Drill and bit compatibility: chuck size, shank style, rotary-only or hammer-rated use, and any cooling requirement.
A dedicated bit normally gives better control and finish when the substrate is known. A multi-material bit is useful when a hole crosses layers or the material is uncertain, but convenience is its main advantage rather than maximum performance in any one substrate.
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Quick comparison by material
| Workpiece | Usual bit choice | Cutting characteristic | Drill mode | Heat or cooling guidance | Typical priority |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Softwood, hardwood, plywood, MDF, chipboard | Brad-point or other centering-point wood bit; standard wood twist bit for general pilot holes | Spur and center point locate the hole and shear wood fibers | Rotary mode | Usually no added coolant; withdraw periodically for deep holes | Accurate entry and clean edges |
| Large, rough wood openings | Spade bit | Wide flat blade removes material quickly | Rotary mode | Clear chips and avoid forcing a stalled bit | Speed over finish |
| Flat-bottomed wood recesses | Forstner bit | Rim and cutters produce a controlled, flat-bottomed hole | Rotary mode | Use a controlled feed; clear chips in deep recesses | Clean recesses and hinge-style work |
| Ordinary steel, iron, copper, brass, aluminium | High-speed-steel (HSS) twist bit | Helical flutes cut and carry metal chips | Rotary mode | Controlled, generally slower speed for larger diameters; cutting fluid where permitted | General metal drilling |
| Hardened or stainless steel | Cobalt HSS | More heat-resistant cutting material | Rotary mode | Keep the bit from overheating; use suitable cutting fluid if allowed | Heat resistance and durability |
| Brick, block, concrete and natural stone | Carbide-tipped masonry or concrete bit | Carbide tip pulverizes abrasive, brittle mineral material | Rotary for light work; hammer only when bit and substrate permit | Clear dust; follow the bit maker’s limits | Anchor-compatible hole and reliable penetration |
| Soft ceramic tile | Carbide tile bit or diamond-ground carbide bit | Grinding or cutting action limits glaze chipping | Rotary only | Slow speed and light pressure; follow cooling instructions | Prevent skating and cracked glaze |
| Porcelain, marble, granite and glass | Diamond-grit bit or diamond hole saw | Abrasive diamond removes hard, brittle material | Rotary only; never hammer through the tile | Keep diamond tooling cool with water when the maker specifies it | Controlled heat and chip-free progress |
Choosing a bit for wood
Brad-point and centering-point bits
Choose a brad-point bit when the hole must start exactly on a mark and the rim should be clean. The center spur anchors the bit before the outer cutting spurs enter the wood, reducing wandering on smooth boards and limiting tear-out at the entry. These bits are suitable for softwood, hardwood and sheet goods when appearance and placement matter.
Support the back of the workpiece with scrap wood, or clamp a sacrificial backer beneath it, when breakout on the exit side would be visible. Keep the drill square to the surface and let the cutting edges work rather than levering the tool sideways.
Standard wood twist bits
A wood twist bit is a versatile choice for pilot holes in softwood, hardwood, plywood, MDF and chipboard. The Bosch guidance cited for this topic specifically places wood twist bits across those wood types. They are practical for general fastening work, but a brad-point design is easier to start accurately and usually leaves a cleaner opening.
Spade bits
Use a spade bit when the priority is making a larger utility hole quickly, such as for cable or pipe clearance where the edge will be hidden. Its flat blade removes wood rapidly but does not normally match a brad-point or Forstner bit for finish quality. Reduce breakout by backing the exit side and easing pressure as the point approaches the far face.
Forstner bits
Forstner bits suit clean, flat-bottomed recesses and hinge-style work. Their rim cuts a defined circle while the internal cutters remove the waste, allowing a recess that does not pass through the board. They require a steady, square feed; clear chips when the recess is deep because compacted waste increases friction and heat.
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Wood-drilling checklist
- Mark the center and confirm that the bit diameter matches the fastener, plug or fitting.
- Clamp the board and place a backer behind the exit face when breakout matters.
- Use rotary mode, not hammer mode.
- Withdraw the bit intermittently on deep holes to clear chips.
- For a visible hole, choose a centering-point or Forstner bit instead of a speed-oriented spade bit.
Choosing a bit for metal
HSS twist bits for everyday metal
High-speed-steel (HSS) twist bits cover ordinary drilling in steel, iron, copper, brass, aluminium and other common metals. Their helical flutes carry chips out of the hole, while the cutting point is designed for metal rather than wood fibers or masonry dust. Bosch’s metal-drilling guidance states that a bit designed specifically for metal is the appropriate choice for these materials.
Keep the bit aligned and use a controlled speed. Larger diameters and harder alloys generally call for slower operation than small holes in thin, soft sheet. Excessive speed turns friction into heat, dulls the edge and can harden some steels at the surface, making subsequent drilling more difficult.
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Cobalt HSS for hard or stainless steel
Cobalt HSS is the better choice when the workpiece is hardened or stainless steel and heat resistance is important. It is not a license to run the drill aggressively: maintain a steady feed, avoid letting the bit rub without cutting, and use cutting oil when the bit manufacturer permits it. Letting a stainless-steel hole work-harden through light, wandering pressure can make the job harder.
Coatings: what they do and do not change
Black-oxide coatings improve wear and corrosion resistance. Titanium coatings reduce friction and can help an edge last in repeated work. Neither coating changes the basic rule that the bit’s underlying geometry and material must suit the workpiece. A coated bit intended for general metal is still not a substitute for a masonry or tile bit.
Metal-drilling checklist
- Center-punch the location on flat stock so the bit does not skate.
- Clamp the work securely; do not hold loose metal in your hand while drilling.
- Use rotary mode and a controlled speed, especially for larger diameters.
- Apply cutting fluid only when the bit and workpiece instructions allow it, keeping liquid away from electrical components.
- Stop if the bit discolors, smokes or loses its edge; correct speed, pressure or lubrication before continuing.
Choosing a bit for brick, block, concrete and stone
Carbide-tipped masonry bits
Carbide-tipped masonry or concrete bits are designed for abrasive, brittle mineral materials. The carbide cutting tip breaks up brick, block, concrete and natural stone while the flutes remove dust. Use a diameter and drilling depth that match the anchor or fastener, not merely the size that looks close.
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Rotary versus hammer drilling
A rotary drill can handle light work in softer brick or block when the bit is rated for it. Dense concrete, larger holes and repeated anchor drilling commonly need a hammer-drill or SDS system, but only when the bit and the substrate instructions permit hammer action. A standard rotary-only bit can be damaged by impact, and a hammer-rated bit in unsuitable material can cause unnecessary surface damage.
Home Depot’s masonry guidance emphasizes following the bit maker’s safety and compatibility instructions. Check the package for the approved drill mode, shank system and maximum depth before fitting the bit.
Anchor-hole procedure
- Read the anchor or fastener specification and select the stated bit diameter and minimum depth.
- Mark the location and check for hidden cables, pipes or reinforcement before drilling.
- Fit a carbide masonry bit with a shank that matches the drill or SDS chuck.
- Drill square to the surface, using rotary or hammer mode only as the bit instructions allow.
- Withdraw the bit periodically to clear dust; excessive packed dust can slow cutting and reduce usable depth.
- Clean the hole before inserting the anchor, then install the fastener according to its instructions.
Choosing a bit for ceramic tile, porcelain, stone and glass
Identify the tile first
Softer ceramic tile can generally be drilled with a carbide tile bit or a diamond-ground carbide bit. Porcelain, marble, granite and glass are harder and generally call for diamond grit or a diamond hole saw. If you cannot identify the tile, inspect an offcut or the product documentation rather than assuming that all glazed tiles behave alike.
Safe tile-drilling technique
- Mark the hole and place painter’s tape over a smooth glazed surface if needed to reduce skating.
- Fit the tile-rated bit and set the drill to low rotary speed.
- Hold the drill square, apply light steady pressure and let the abrasive edge make progress gradually.
- Keep hammer action off while the bit is crossing the tile; impact can crack or spall it.
- Use water to keep a diamond bit cool when the specific bit maker calls for or allows constant water application. Harbor Freight’s guidance dated March 24, 2026, notes that cooling also helps flush debris and prevent overheating.
- Once the bit has passed through the tile, stop and change to a masonry bit if the backing is brick or concrete. Continue with the mode appropriate to that substrate.
Do not force a dry diamond bit when its instructions require water, and do not introduce water around a drill or extension cord unless the equipment and work area are arranged for that use.
When a multi-material bit makes sense
A multi-material bit, such as the Bosch MultiConstruction range, can be convenient when a hole passes through layers or the substrate is uncertain. One bit may cross a tile face and masonry backing without a tool change, which is useful for occasional installation work.
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Convenience has limits. When the material is known and the hole count, finish or speed matters, a dedicated wood, metal, masonry or tile bit generally offers better control. A multi-material bit should not be treated as a universal replacement for cobalt HSS in hard stainless steel, a Forstner bit for a flat-bottomed recess or a diamond tool for hard porcelain.
Match the bit to the hole and the tool
Diameter and depth
For anchors, plugs and fasteners, the hole diameter and depth are specified by the hardware maker. For clearance holes, choose a diameter that lets the fastener pass without binding; for pilot holes, use the size appropriate to the fastener and the material. A bit that is correct for the material but too short, too narrow or too shallow for the job is still the wrong bit.
Shank and chuck compatibility
Confirm that the bit shank fits the drill’s chuck or SDS holder and that the bit is rated for the tool’s operating mode. A hammer-rated masonry bit may require an SDS system, while many wood and metal bits use a conventional round shank. Do not clamp a shank that is too large, and remove the battery or unplug the drill before changing bits.
Entry and exit finish
Choose geometry according to the visible surfaces. Centering-point wood bits and diamond tile tools help control entry; a backer reduces wood breakout; a spade bit is acceptable when the opening is hidden. On brittle tile, light pressure and cooling matter more than speed.
A practical selection procedure
- Identify every layer. A painted board, tiled wall or metal bracket may conceal a different material behind the visible surface.
- Define the hole. Record diameter, depth, through-hole or recess, and whether an anchor or fastener must fit.
- Choose the dedicated bit family. Use wood geometry for wood, HSS for common metal, carbide masonry for mineral substrates, and carbide or diamond for tile according to hardness.
- Check the tool mode. Rotary mode is the default for wood, metal and tile. Hammer mode is reserved for compatible masonry work.
- Plan heat and debris control. Use cutting fluid for metal when permitted, water for diamond tile tools when specified, and chip or dust clearing for deep holes.
- Secure the work and protect yourself. Clamp the piece, check for hidden services, wear eye protection and keep hands clear of the cutting path.
- Test on a scrap or hidden area. Verify speed, pressure and finish before drilling a visible surface or expensive material.
Common failures and how to correct them
The bit walks across the surface
On wood, use a brad-point center spur. On metal, center-punch the mark. On smooth tile, painter’s tape and a slow, square start can reduce skating. Do not compensate by pressing harder, because excessive force can chip glaze or bend a small bit.
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The bit overheats
Heat commonly comes from excessive speed, insufficient chip removal, too much pressure or a dull bit. Slow the operation, clear the flutes, use cutting fluid on metal when allowed, and cool a diamond tile bit as specified. A discolored metal bit should be allowed to cool and inspected before reuse.
The hole edge breaks out
Use a backer on wood and ease pressure as the bit exits. In tile, keep the bit square and use light pressure; never switch on hammer action to speed the final portion. If the finish is critical, use a bit designed for a clean entry rather than a rough-hole tool.
The masonry anchor will not seat
Check the bit diameter and depth against the anchor specification, clear dust from the hole and verify that the bit was suitable for the substrate. An undersized, shallow or dust-packed hole can prevent full insertion even when the drilling itself felt successful.
The bit stops cutting metal
Inspect for a dull edge, excessive speed or surface work-hardening. Replace a worn general-purpose HSS bit with cobalt HSS for hard or stainless steel when appropriate, then use a controlled feed and permitted cutting fluid.
Care, storage and replacement
- Brush or wipe chips and masonry dust from flutes before storage.
- Keep sharp bits separated so cutting edges do not knock against one another.
- Replace bits with chipped carbide, cracked diamond segments, bent shanks or visibly blunted cutting edges.
- Do not rely on a coating to rescue a damaged cutting edge.
- Keep the package or manufacturer instructions with specialty bits so speed, hammer-mode and cooling limits remain available.
Safety checks before pulling the trigger
- Locate hidden electrical cables, plumbing and reinforcement before drilling walls, floors or ceilings.
- Clamp loose work and support large panels so they cannot rotate or fall.
- Wear eye protection; masonry dust and broken tile are hazardous even at low speed.
- Use hearing and respiratory protection appropriate to the material and workplace.
- Keep water away from electrical connections and use only cooling methods approved for the tool and bit.
- Stop if vibration, binding, smoke, cracking or unusual noise appears, then reassess the bit, mode and material.
Bottom line
Choose the bit by matching its cutting geometry and material to the workpiece. Brad-point, spade and Forstner bits cover different wood jobs; HSS and cobalt HSS cover ordinary and heat-demanding metal work; carbide masonry bits handle brick, block and concrete; and carbide or diamond tools handle tile according to hardness. Rotary mode is the safe starting point, hammer action belongs only to compatible masonry setups, and careful control of pressure, speed, chips and heat is what turns the right bit into a clean, reliable hole.
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