The Tool Desk
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A retro-terminal topper is a small framed panel mounted above a bartop arcade cabinet. Build it to the cabinet you actually own: measure the cabinet width, the available height, and the support points first, then size the frame opening, face panel, and optional lighting cavity as one assembly. There is no standard topper dimension, and the published bartop examples used for reference are cabinet plans or kits rather than a dedicated topper drawing.
The practical build is straightforward: make a rigid frame, attach a clear acrylic or other plastic face (or use a solid decorative panel), add artwork that suggests a monochrome terminal, and install an LED light behind the face only if you want a marquee effect. Keep the topper removable so you can service the light, artwork, and cabinet controls later.
Start with the cabinet, not a guessed topper size
Measure the finished or nearly finished cabinet before cutting anything. Cabinet plans vary in monitor size, side-panel shape, control-panel depth, and the amount of space above the screen. A topper that looks proportionate on one bartop can overhang another or block access to the rear.
Record the measurements that control the design
- Cabinet width: Measure across the outside faces at the exact height where the topper will attach. Measure in several places if the sides taper.
- Available height: Measure from the cabinet’s top surface to the highest point you can use without hitting a shelf, wall, or display case.
- Mounting depth: Check how much front-to-back surface is available for cleats, brackets, or screws. Do not assume the top is solid; speakers, monitor hardware, or wiring may occupy it.
- Viewing angle: Stand where the cabinet will be played and note whether a vertical, slightly backward-leaning, or slightly forward-leaning face is easiest to read.
- Service access: Identify a path for removing the topper or opening the rear. A permanently sealed marquee is difficult to repair if an LED fails.
Use the narrowest measured cabinet width as the starting point. If the two sides are not parallel, design the topper to follow the visible front width and let the rear mounting structure accommodate the difference. Leave a small visual margin inside the cabinet edges rather than making the topper wider by default.
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Use formulas instead of a universal dimension
Set the outside width from your cabinet and the desired side margins:
topper outside width = cabinet mounting width + (2 × chosen side margin)
Set the face panel from the frame opening:
face width = frame opening width − clearance for the mounting method
face height = frame opening height − clearance for the mounting method
The clearance depends on whether the panel sits in a routed groove, behind a retaining strip, or on top of the frame. Choose the mounting method before ordering or cutting acrylic. For a backlit design, reserve a cavity behind the face for the light, wiring, and any diffuser. The cavity can be shallow, but the panel must not touch the LEDs or pinch the cable.
What published bartop dimensions do—and do not—tell you
I Like To Make Stuff publishes one bartop example for a 17-inch 4:3 monitor. Its approximate cabinet is 19 inches wide, 17 inches deep, and 28 inches tall, uses less than one sheet of 1/2-inch plywood, and includes imperial and metric plan dimensions. Those numbers describe that complete cabinet, not a standard topper. Use the example to understand the scale of a small bartop, not to copy a topper width.
Raspberry Pi’s HackSpace cabinet article likewise treats its plans as rough and adaptable. It recommends fitting the cabinet around the monitor and lists 18 mm MDF for the cabinet body and 12 mm MDF for front and back panels. Those thicknesses are context for a full cabinet; they are not requirements for a light topper frame. A topper should be thick enough to stay rigid and hold its fasteners without splitting, while remaining light enough for the cabinet’s mounting points.
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Choose the topper architecture
Decide whether the topper is simply a decorative sign or a marquee assembly. The choice affects the frame, panel, wiring, and maintenance access.
| Design | What it includes | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fixed unlit panel | Solid decorative panel or a clear face with printed artwork, held in a frame | Few parts, no power route, no light cavity, and easy installation | It does not glow; clear material is mainly a protective or visual layer |
| Framed backlit marquee | Face panel, artwork or translucent graphic, rear cavity, LED light, and a serviceable power path | Creates the illuminated arcade-marquee effect and makes lettering visible in dim rooms | Requires cavity space, cable management, heat awareness, and access for replacement |
| Solid sculpted or painted sign | Opaque wood, MDF, or plywood with painted terminal graphics | No transparent panel is required and the design can have depth or cut-out lettering | Lighting is harder to add later; the finish must carry the visual effect |
Clear acrylic face versus a solid panel
A clear acrylic or similar plastic face is a documented marquee approach in the Raspberry Pi cabinet article and in bartop products that specify plexiglass. It works well when artwork is printed on translucent stock or placed behind the panel. A solid panel is a reasonable design alternative when you prefer painted graphics, engraved lettering, or an unlit sign; that alternative is a design choice rather than a tested performance comparison.
Lit versus unlit
Backlighting is optional. Bartop examples from Monster Arcades and Ourcades describe a plexiglass marquee with an LED light behind it. Their product descriptions support the arrangement, but they do not establish a particular LED type, panel thickness, or electrical layout for a custom topper. Select a light that fits your measured cavity, then plan how its power cable reaches a safe supply without crossing moving parts or sharp edges.
Gather materials and tools
Buy materials only after the measured opening and frame thickness are fixed. A typical build uses the following categories.
Structure
- Sheet material for the frame and any rear cover: MDF, plywood, or another rigid board suitable for your tools and finish.
- Four frame rails or a single panel with a routed or cut opening.
- Small internal cleats, corner blocks, or metal brackets for joining the frame.
- Screws, threaded inserts, bolts, or another removable mounting method sized for the cabinet material.
Face and graphics
- Clear acrylic or another compatible plastic sheet for a marquee-style face, or an opaque panel for a painted sign.
- Artwork printed on paper, film, or another medium that matches the chosen lighting method.
- Retaining strips, clips, glazing points, or a shallow groove to hold the face without stressing it.
Lighting and finish
- An LED marquee light or LED strip that physically fits behind the face.
- A suitable power lead, connector, strain relief, and switch if the light is not controlled with the cabinet.
- Primer, paint, masking materials, and edge treatment appropriate to MDF, plywood, or acrylic.
- Sandpaper, a drill, saw or router, clamps, a square, a tape measure, and a way to make clean pilot holes.
Do not choose a light by brightness alone. Confirm its physical length, mounting method, voltage requirements, connector, and heat output. The topper’s rear cover should not trap heat against the panel or let the LEDs shine directly into the player’s eyes.
Draw the topper at full size
Make a full-size front and side drawing on cardboard, paper, or a CAD sketch before cutting the final material. Mark the cabinet width, the frame’s outside edges, the clear opening, the face thickness, the rear cavity, and every mounting point.
Set the visual proportions
A narrow topper can look like an afterthought, while an oversized one can dominate a small bartop. Keep the face wide enough for the title and status graphics to read from the player’s normal position. If the cabinet has a curved or angled control panel, echo one major angle in the topper instead of adding several unrelated shapes.
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The retro-terminal appearance is an original styling direction, not a historical specification established by the construction sources. Useful suggestions include a restrained monochrome palette, block lettering, a rectangular display-like border, and a small status line such as “READY,” “INSERT COIN,” or a fictional system prompt. Treat those as creative options. The sources do not prescribe a typeface, color, wording, or terminal interface.
Plan the light and the panel together
Draw the light behind the face, not as an afterthought. Check that the frame leaves enough depth for the lamp and its cable, that the rear cover can be removed, and that the face can be lifted out without dismantling the cabinet. If the artwork needs even illumination, leave room for a diffuser or a second layer behind the graphic. A clear face with a light immediately behind it can show bright spots; spacing and diffusion are design decisions you can test with a temporary LED.
Build the frame
- Transfer the measured outside dimensions. Mark the width and height on the chosen sheet material. Mark the opening separately so you do not confuse the visible face size with the overall frame size.
- Cut the outer shape. Use a straightedge and a square for rectangular edges. If the topper follows a cabinet slope, make a cardboard template first and check it against both cabinet sides.
- Cut the opening. Drill starter holes inside the waste area, then saw or route to the opening lines. Leave the face-retaining lip intact on every side.
- Dry-fit the face. Place the acrylic or other panel in the opening with its protective film still on. Confirm that it sits flat and has the clearance required by your retention method.
- Join the frame. Clamp rails or corner blocks, drill pilot holes, and fasten them. Keep screws away from the panel path; a protruding tip can crack acrylic or prevent removal.
- Add the rear cavity. Install spacers or a shallow box behind the opening if the light needs stand-off distance. Leave an access panel or removable back strip.
- Round and seal exposed edges. Ease sharp wood corners and seal MDF edges before painting. Do not sand acrylic in the frame opening where abrasive dust can remain trapped.
If you use MDF, remember that the 18 mm body and 12 mm front/back values in the Raspberry Pi article apply to its larger cabinet. Select a topper frame thickness based on your span, fastener engagement, and weight; copying those cabinet values may make a small sign unnecessarily heavy.
Fit the acrylic or other face panel
Cut and handle the panel safely
Keep the protective film on both sides while marking and cutting. Support the sheet close to the cut line, use a blade intended for plastic, and avoid forcing the tool through a corner. Remove burrs from the edge without scratching the visible surface. If the panel is already cut, verify its dimensions against the actual frame rather than assuming the sheet is square.
Choose a stress-free retention method
- Retaining strips: Screw thin strips to the rear of the frame so the panel can be lifted out later.
- Groove: Slide the panel into a shallow groove before closing one frame rail. This gives a clean appearance but makes future removal more involved.
- Clips or glazing points: Useful when the panel must be replaced often, provided the clips do not concentrate force on one corner.
Do not clamp acrylic tightly as if it were structural glass. Leave the small movement allowance required by your chosen panel and fasteners, and keep screws from touching the sheet directly. The exact allowance depends on the material and cutting method; test the fit on a scrap edge first.
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Design the graphic at the measured visible opening, not at the outside frame size. Add a bleed only where the frame will hide it. Print a paper mock-up and tape it into the frame so you can judge legibility from the playing position.
Build a convincing terminal look without pretending it is a historical standard
Use one dominant color family and high contrast. A dark field with a single luminous accent, block lettering, a thin border, and a few deliberately spaced status lines will read as terminal-inspired without needing a crowded collage. A fictional system name, boot prompt, or scrolling status can make the topper personal. These are recommendations for visual coherence, not sourced facts about a particular terminal era.
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Prepare graphics for lighting
For a backlit face, test the artwork with the actual light behind it. Thin paper may become too bright, while dense ink can look almost black. A translucent print, a diffuser behind the graphic, or a second backing layer can improve uniformity. For an unlit face, opaque paint, vinyl, or a direct print gives more predictable color. Keep the graphic removable if you expect to revise the cabinet theme.
Install optional LED backlighting
- Test before fastening. Connect the light to its intended power source on the bench. Confirm polarity, connector fit, and that the brightness is acceptable behind the chosen face and artwork.
- Mark the light position. Center it in the cavity or distribute multiple light sources so no bright point is visible through the panel.
- Provide a safe mount. Use the light’s supplied clips, screws, or a nonconductive bracket. Keep it from resting on the acrylic or loose artwork.
- Route the cable. Drill a rounded, protected pass-through toward the cabinet. Add strain relief and keep the cable away from sharp edges, hot components, hinges, and the monitor’s moving or removable parts.
- Make service possible. Use a connector or accessible junction so the topper can be removed without cutting wires. Label the plug if the cabinet contains several similar leads.
- Close the cavity and inspect. Fit the rear cover, power the light, and look for hotspots, shadows, glare, or heat buildup. Correct those issues before final painting and mounting.
The cited bartop examples establish that an LED can sit behind a plexiglass marquee; they do not establish a universal voltage, wattage, light spacing, or panel thickness. Follow the light manufacturer’s electrical instructions and the requirements of your power supply. If you are not comfortable working with mains wiring, use a suitable low-voltage supply and have any mains-side work completed by a qualified person.
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Finish the frame and protect the service points
Remove the face panel before painting. Prime exposed MDF edges thoroughly because they absorb finish unevenly. Sand between coats, mask the opening, and keep paint out of the groove or retaining-strip contact area. If you want a worn terminal aesthetic, apply distressing only after the main color has cured and test the technique on scrap.
Leave access to the rear cover, light connector, and mounting screws. A neat finish that requires removing the monitor to replace a marquee light is a poor trade. Add felt or a thin gasket where the topper contacts the cabinet if vibration or paint scuffing is a concern.
Mount the topper to the bartop cabinet
- Position the topper with the cabinet powered off. Center it visually and check that it does not block ventilation, speakers, buttons, or the monitor bezel.
- Mark the support points. Use solid cabinet material, internal cleats, or a bracket rather than relying on a thin decorative edge.
- Pre-drill and test the fasteners. Pilot holes reduce splitting. If the topper must be removable, use bolts, threaded inserts, or screws accessible from the rear instead of permanent adhesive.
- Attach without over-tightening. Tighten until the frame is secure; excessive force can crush MDF, distort the frame, or stress the acrylic.
- Route and secure the light cable. Leave a small service loop, then secure it so it cannot hang into the control area or become pinched when the topper is removed.
- Check alignment from the player’s position. A frame that is square to the workbench can look tilted on a cabinet with angled sides. Adjust the mounting hardware before final tightening.
Decide whether to adapt a cabinet plan or kit
A full bartop plan can supply useful woodworking references, templates, and scale context. The I Like To Make Stuff example includes a 17-inch 4:3 monitor, approximate 19-by-17-by-28-inch cabinet dimensions, and both imperial and metric plans. It is still a cabinet plan, not a topper pattern; you must redraw the topper from your cabinet measurements.
Commercial bartop descriptions can help you identify components that commonly appear in a marquee assembly. Monster Arcades lists a plexiglass marquee, an LED marquee light, monitor mounting, and artwork templates among its kit features. Ourcades describes marquee plexiglass as an option and a light installed behind the marquee. These references support the idea of a lit marquee and identify possible component categories, but they do not guarantee that a supplied part will fit your custom frame. Measure before adapting any kit component.
Choose the right variant for your build
| If your priority is… | Choose… | Plan for… |
|---|---|---|
| Fastest, simplest installation | Unlit fixed panel | A rigid frame, artwork, and removable mounting; no power route or light cavity |
| Maximum marquee impact | Clear face with rear LED lighting | Panel clearance, diffusion, cable routing, service access, and glare control |
| Low weight above a small cabinet | Thin framed face with lightweight rear supports | Enough fastener engagement and a mounting structure that cannot flex |
| A hand-painted, nontransparent look | Solid decorative panel | An opaque finish and a design that does not depend on illumination |
| Reuse of existing plans | Adapted cabinet-plan geometry | New topper measurements; published cabinet dimensions are references, not guarantees |
Troubleshoot common problems
The topper is too wide or rocks on the cabinet
Recheck the mounting width at the actual attachment height. A tapered side panel can make a nominally correct measurement wrong at the rear. Add a shaped cleat or bracket rather than forcing the frame into alignment.
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The acrylic rattles
Check whether the panel is smaller than the opening or whether the retaining strips are loose. Add a thin, removable gasket or reposition the clips; do not solve the rattle by clamping the plastic tightly.
The light shows bright spots
Move the light farther from the face if the cavity permits, add a diffuser, or distribute the light more evenly. Test with the final artwork installed, because ink density changes the apparent brightness.
The face looks washed out
Reduce the light output, use denser artwork, or add an opaque backing layer. A clear panel alone does not guarantee saturated colors when a bright source is directly behind it.
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The light works on the bench but not in the cabinet
Inspect the connector, polarity, supply rating, and cable for a pinched section. Test the supply at the cabinet end, then isolate the light from any cabinet switch or distribution board that may be interrupting power.
The frame splits around a screw
Remove the fastener, replace the damaged section if necessary, and drill a pilot hole sized for the screw. Keep fasteners away from the panel opening and use a cleat or insert when the material is too thin for repeated removal.
The topper blocks ventilation or controls
Move the mounting points, reduce the frame depth, or redesign the rear cover. The topper should never seal a cabinet vent or interfere with access to the monitor, speakers, or control panel simply to preserve an initial sketch.
Final inspection checklist
- The outside width matches the cabinet at the mounting height, with no unintended overhang.
- The face panel fits the opening without stress and can be removed for replacement.
- The rear cavity has enough room for the light and its cable, if fitted.
- All wiring is secured, protected at pass-throughs, and disconnected easily for service.
- The mounting hardware engages solid material and does not crush the cabinet or frame.
- The artwork is readable from the playing position and does not create unsafe glare.
- Ventilation, speakers, monitor access, and controls remain unobstructed.
- The finish is cured, the protective film is removed only after final dusty work, and every screw is tightened without stressing the acrylic.
A successful retro-terminal topper is therefore a measured, serviceable marquee rather than a copied set of dimensions. Use your cabinet’s width and clearance to establish the geometry, choose between an unlit panel and an optional backlit assembly, and treat the terminal graphics as your own design language. The published cabinet plans and bartop product descriptions provide useful construction context, but the final topper must be fitted to the cabinet in front of you.
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