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Buy the least elaborate material that can answer your next design question. Paper, scrap cardboard, pens, sticky notes and borrowed pieces are ideal while rules and numbers are changing. Upgrade to sleeves, cardstock, mounted boards or custom printing only when opacity, handling, scale, durability or presentation affects the test.
This guide matches materials to prototype stage and component type, so you can assemble a playable version without spending on details that will soon be discarded.
Start with the question your prototype must answer
A prototype is a test instrument, not a miniature final product. If you are checking whether a turn structure is understandable, the fastest-to-edit paper version is usually the best choice. If you are checking whether hidden information works, card backs must be opaque. If you are checking whether a large board is readable across a table, you need the correct scale and a surface that stays flat. If a component’s weight, shape or texture changes decisions, use a stand-in with similar physical behavior.
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- Rules and balance: use paper slips, pencil or pen, sticky notes and generic pieces.
- Information visibility: use sleeves, opaque backs and readable text.
- Scale and layout: print at the intended size and use a board that will not curl or slide.
- Tactile identity: choose pieces with similar size, weight, shape or movement to the intended component.
- Presentation or shipping: make the set complete, legible and robust enough for repeated handling.
Materials by prototype stage
Stage 1: first rough playtests
Use whatever can be marked, cut and replaced quickly:
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- Printer paper or scrap paper for cards, rules, trackers and temporary boards.
- Scrap cardboard for pieces that need to stand up or be picked up repeatedly.
- Pens, pencils, highlighters and a ruler for quick notation and alignment.
- Sticky notes for board spaces, abilities, costs or rules that are likely to move.
- Coins, buttons, spare game pieces, building bricks or other household objects as generic tokens.
Write directly on paper when the change rate is high. A hand-written card can be replaced in seconds; a carefully formatted card creates pressure to preserve wording that has not survived a test. Keep component roles obvious with large labels such as “wood,” “income” or “worker” rather than trying to imitate final iconography.
Index cards are a useful middle ground when loose slips are too flimsy. The Tabletop Game Designers Association describes 3 × 5 inch cards that can serve as cards, tokens, player mats, tiles or standees; colored cards can separate decks or groups. Half of a 3 × 5 inch card is close to standard playing-card size, but confirm the actual dimensions against the sleeves and card format you plan to use rather than assuming compatibility.
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Once the core loop works, make repeated tests easier to run without making the prototype permanent. Print batches of cards, place replaceable inserts in sleeves, and separate components into labeled bags. Use a simple spreadsheet or document to regenerate changed cards while preserving consistent dimensions.
At this stage, add only the physical qualities that affect play. For example, a board that folds or lies flat can make setup more consistent, while a custom-shaped token is unnecessary if a colored cube communicates the same role.
Stage 3: internal or blind playtests
A prototype used by people who are not in the room needs clearer labeling and rules. Print legible text, distinguish every icon, and include all pieces named in the rules. Sleeved cards or reasonably heavy cardstock reduce handling problems; a board attached to chipboard stays flatter than a loose sheet.
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Do not confuse neatness with completion. A tidy set that omits a required marker still prevents a meaningful test. Conversely, final illustrations are not necessary when the question is whether the system works.
Stage 4: publisher-facing prototype
For a publisher submission, prioritize completeness, legibility and independent play over decorative polish. Tabletop Runner’s publisher-prototype guide states the principle plainly: “Completeness matters more than beauty.” Every component named by the rules should be present, icons should be distinguishable, and players should be able to play from the written rules without the designer explaining each step.
Practical choices at this stage include sleeved cards or decent cardstock, a rigidly mounted board, and standard cubes or meeples in place of custom sculpts. Home printing and print-on-demand can both be workable approaches, and some publishers initially evaluate a digital prototype; those are reported practices rather than guarantees. Check each target publisher’s current submission requirements before sending anything.
Choose card materials by the problem they solve
| Card approach | Best use | Advantages | Limitations and checks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loose paper slips | Very early rules, values and wording tests | Fastest to write, cut and replace; minimal cost and effort | Thin, easy to mix up, and often translucent; backs may reveal information |
| Index cards | Handwritten or lightly printed components that must be picked up | Convenient size and stiffness; can also act as tiles, mats or standees | 3 × 5 inches is a source-described size, not a universal standard; verify sleeve fit |
| Paper insert in a sleeve with a standard card behind it | Frequent face revisions with concealed backs | Swap inserts quickly while the backing card keeps the sleeve opaque and consistent | Requires sleeves and a compatible backing card; insert dimensions must leave room for the sleeve seal |
| Cardstock | Larger batches and prototypes that need easier handling | More rigid, printable and presentable than ordinary paper | Printer feed and cutter limits vary; stock that is too thick can jam or fail to feed |
Blue Heron Games notes that sleeving a replaceable paper face with a standard card allows faster, cleaner swaps than taping paper onto a card. This method is especially useful for hidden-information games, where a one-sided paper card could expose its identity through the back.
For printable batches, the Troy Press guide to prototyping card games discusses cardstock as a practical option. Cardstock is commonly sold in descriptions such as 110 lb (200 g/m²), but that label does not guarantee that every home printer or cutter can handle it. Test a few sheets before committing to a large run.
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Keep card production reversible
- Set a single card size and create a master template with safe margins.
- Print a small proof containing the longest text, darkest graphics and smallest icon.
- Check that text is readable at normal playing distance and that cut lines do not remove information.
- Cut only enough cards for one test, then revise wording and layout from observed play.
- When backs must be hidden, use sleeves with a standard backing card rather than relying on opaque paper stock without testing it.
Use generic pieces for tokens, resources and randomness
Colored cubes
Colored cubes can represent money, resources, workers, damage, progress or ownership. Their value is flexibility: one bag of cubes can support several rulesets. Assign a written legend or color key so players do not have to remember what each color means.
The Tabletop Game Designers Association describes 1 cm cubes as a commonly available example. Treat that dimension as a reference for sourcing and storage, not a requirement. Match the size to the board spaces and players’ ability to distinguish pieces.
Dice
Standard dice let you test whether a random mechanic produces interesting decisions before you design custom faces. Record the number of sides and symbols needed for the final system, but do not commission custom dice until repeated tests show that the distribution and handling are right. If players need to read results quickly, use large, high-contrast dice or write a temporary legend beside the play area.
Shape and tactile distinction
Use plastic tiles, meeples, bingo markers, coins or spare components when shape or tactile separation affects play. The Tabletop Game Designers Association guide gives 1 × 1 inch plastic tiles as an example of a readily available format. A distinct shape is justified when players must identify a role by touch, when pieces are stacked, or when footprint and movement matter. Otherwise, color-coded cubes are usually faster to change.
Build boards, tiles and player mats in layers
Early boards
Start with printer paper or thin cardboard. Tape sheets together for a large map, or use sticky notes for spaces whose order and wording are still under discussion. Mark zones with thick lines and write dimensions directly on the board; visual polish can wait until movement and visibility are stable.
Rigid boards and tokens
For a sturdier version, mount a printed sheet or full-sheet label onto chipboard. The Tabletop Game Designers Association describes this construction and notes the trade-off: thicker board is stiffer but harder to cut. Use a sharp blade, a cutting mat and multiple light passes rather than forcing a thick sheet in one cut.
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Binder clips provide a reversible way to attach a printed paper or cardstock board to an existing game board without gluing it down. This is useful when the same physical base will host several layout experiments.
Tiles, standees and player aids
Cut tiles from index cards or cardstock for early tests. Add scrap cardboard behind them when they need to stand upright, and write a short identifier on the reverse so dropped pieces can be sorted. Player mats can be a sheet of paper at first; mount them only after their size and zones stop changing.
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Check scale before mounting
- Place the largest expected number of cards, tokens and hands on the unmounted layout.
- Confirm that text and icons remain readable from the intended seating positions.
- Mark fold lines, table edges and reach distances before cutting chipboard.
- Only then mount the final test print to a rigid backing.
Storage is part of the prototype system
Keep each game’s components together in resealable plastic bags or a small organizer. Blue Heron Games specifically recommends bags for preserving a prototype between design sessions and preventing pieces from migrating into other games.
- Use one labeled bag for each player color, deck or resource type.
- Keep a spare bag for discarded or superseded cards so they are not accidentally returned to play.
- Store the rules with the components, including a version date or identifier.
- Photograph the setup before packing if reassembly is not obvious.
- For shipping, put small bags inside a rigid box and protect loose boards from bending.
Compare materials with five practical tests
| Test | Question to ask | Material choice that usually wins |
|---|---|---|
| Revision speed | How quickly can one changed rule or value reach the table? | Paper, pencil, sticky notes or sleeved inserts |
| Opacity and handling | Can players see hidden information, and will cards survive repeated shuffling? | Sleeves with backing cards, then cardstock if appropriate |
| Stiffness and cutting | Must a board stay flat, and can you cut the stock safely and accurately? | Paper for exploration; chipboard mounting for a stable later copy |
| Tactile fidelity | Do size, weight, shape or texture change decisions? | Pieces with similar physical behavior; generic cubes when they do not |
| Cost and effort | Will this version be discarded after one test? | Household stand-ins and basic stationery; reserve elaborate production for stable builds |
Early playtests generally favor revision speed. A publisher-facing copy shifts the balance toward completeness, legibility and durability because other people must set it up, understand it and handle it without your help.
A repeatable build process
- Write the test question. State the one uncertainty the session must resolve, such as “Do players have enough information to choose between these two actions?”
- List only required components. Pull every item named by the rules, then mark which can be represented by paper, a cube, a die or a household object.
- Choose the cheapest adequate material. Use paper for mutable text, sleeves for hidden backs, cubes for generic quantities and rigid board only when flatness matters.
- Set dimensions before printing. Measure the table area, card slots and storage bags. Confirm index-card or sleeve dimensions instead of assuming a nominal size will fit.
- Make a one-copy proof. Test the thickest cardstock, the smallest text and the darkest ink before producing a batch.
- Label component roles. A large word or color key is more useful than temporary decorative art.
- Run the game without coaching when possible. Note where players ask questions that the written rules or component labels should answer.
- Revise only what the test informs. Replace inserts, move sticky notes or rewrite cards; avoid rebuilding untouched pieces.
- Archive the version. Date the rules and keep superseded components in a separate bag so results can be reproduced.
Printer, cutting and handling checks
- Feed path: Verify that your printer accepts the selected cardstock weight and surface. A stock marketed as 110 lb (200 g/m²) may exceed a particular printer’s limit.
- Ink and drying: Let dense prints dry before stacking or sleeving to prevent smearing.
- Cut accuracy: Use a ruler and cutting mat for small runs; a stack cutter is useful only when alignment is already reliable.
- Margins: Keep icons and text away from trim lines and account for printer scaling. Print a ruler or calibration mark on the proof.
- Color dependence: Pair colors with words, symbols or shapes so a component remains identifiable under different lighting or for color-blind players.
- Paper curl: Store loose sheets flat and mount only after the layout has stabilized.
Common mistakes and fixes
Buying final-quality materials too early
Symptom: You avoid changing a rule because replacing a beautifully printed component feels wasteful.
Fix: Return to paper, sticky notes or sleeved inserts until the rule survives several tests.
Using translucent cards for hidden information
Symptom: Players can identify a card from its back or from a shadow.
Fix: Put the paper face in a sleeve with an opaque standard card behind it, then verify that all backs match.
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Choosing stock your printer cannot handle
Symptom: Misfeeds, jams, curled sheets or inconsistent toner adhesion.
Fix: Test a small quantity, consult the printer’s supported media specifications and step down to thinner stock if necessary.
Mounting a board before checking scale
Symptom: Cards overlap spaces, players cannot reach areas, or the board does not fit the table.
Fix: Lay out the unmounted print with all expected pieces and hands before attaching it to chipboard.
Making stand-ins too ambiguous
Symptom: Players repeatedly ask what a cube or coin represents.
Fix: Add a visible color key, letter, sticker or large role label; clarity costs less than custom components.
Sending an incomplete publisher prototype
Symptom: The recipient must ask you how to set up, resolve an icon or substitute a missing component.
Fix: Audit every component named in the rules, include a readable rulebook and perform a test with someone who has not heard your explanation.
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When custom printing is worth considering
Custom print services can be useful after the design has stabilized and you need a consistent, shippable or presentation-ready set. They do not replace iterative playtesting: a professionally produced wrong rule is still wrong, and revisions become slower once each change requires a new order. Compare the service’s component sizes, minimum quantities, turnaround, file requirements and current terms before committing. The publisher-prototype guidance mentions print-on-demand and home printing as possible approaches, but neither is universal for every publisher.
For early and middle stages, material-based construction remains more adaptable. Use a custom service only when consistency, durability or visual communication is itself part of the evaluation.
Publisher-facing checklist
- All cards, boards, tokens, dice and markers named by the rules are included.
- Card backs are opaque and decks are easy to sort.
- Text is readable without magnification and icons are visually distinct.
- Rules explain setup, turn order, exceptions, end conditions and scoring without an oral briefing.
- Boards lie flat, cards can be shuffled, and small pieces are bagged securely.
- Generic cubes, meeples or dice are used where custom shapes are not necessary.
- The version number or date appears on the rules and component files.
- The package is durable enough for handling and shipping but does not spend effort on final artwork that a publisher may replace.
- Submission format and any request for a physical or digital prototype have been confirmed with the specific publisher.
How to decide what to buy today
If you are starting a new design, buy or gather paper, scrap cardboard, pens, sticky notes, a ruler, index cards, colored cubes, standard dice, resealable bags and a few binder clips. That kit covers most early questions. Add sleeves when hidden information or frequent card replacement becomes important. Add cardstock when you need a larger, more consistent batch. Add chipboard and full-sheet labels when a board must stay rigid. Consider custom printing only after the design and dimensions have stopped moving.
There are no current market-wide prices established for these materials here, and retail availability changes by region and date. Treat dimensions such as 3 × 5 inch index cards, 1 cm cubes, 1 × 1 inch tiles and 110 lb (200 g/m²) cardstock as useful source descriptions, then verify fit, printer compatibility and local pricing at purchase time.
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Further guidance
For additional construction examples, see the Tabletop Game Designers Association’s prototyping tips, Blue Heron Games’ paper prototyping toolkit, Troy Press’ card-game prototyping guide, Tabletop Runner’s publisher-prototype guide and the Board Game Design Lab prototypes resource. Use them to refine a build after you have identified the specific question your next playtest must answer.
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